Automatic Translations (Powered by Powered by Google):
Afrikaans Arabic Belarusian Bulgarian Catalan Czechoslovakia Cyprus Germany  Spanish  Ethiopia Persian Finnish French Irish Galician Hindi Croatian Hungarian Icelandic Italian Hebrew Japanese Korean Italian Latvian, Lettish Macedonian Malay Maltese Dutch Norwegian Polish Portuguese Romanian Russian Slovak Slovenian Albanian Serbian Swedish Swahili Thai Tagalog Turkish Ukrainian Vietnamese English
FreeWeldingForum.com Welding Forum Community presented by LONGEVITY  
Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 52

Thread: Trying for a decent bead!!!!

  1. #21
    Freddytk421's Avatar
    Freddytk421 is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Austin Texas
    Posts
    188
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    Try welding two pieces together with a small gap. go slower and clamp the piece where the part your welding is off the table because it will suck some of the heat out. Those welds are not too bad for just starting out but its easier to make a nicer bead if there is a gap for it to go in. don't even use the 1/8 rod with that machine. 3/32 is the max. try going slower than you think you should and speed up on the next one if it was too slow.
    watch my youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/freddytk421
    Hammer
    Drill
    Grinder
    Welder
    Saw
    Who could ask for anything more?GreenSmoking

  2. #22
    barracuda is offline Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    MICHIGAN
    Posts
    59
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Dustendee you also want to weld from your thicker material to your thinner material when welding different thicknesses of material. hope I have been more help than hurt.

  3. #23
    barracuda is offline Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    MICHIGAN
    Posts
    59
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    I'm not if my last replie went through or not , not real with this computor stuff. Also would recomend a backward (c) motion when welding I found it to be best to at bottom of (c) & motion up that way when you do weld a T-joint or a lap weld you start your bead on the lower or flat piece of material first. I'm a bit rusty with stick welding mostly use mig, but technic is basic no matter if you are gas , arc,mig or tig. I hope I disscribed that right.

  4. #24
    Dustendee is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Oceanside
    Posts
    148
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Freddy, barracuda, what should I look for in the molten metal? in other words when do i know when to go forward........when it puddles a little? and in what motion is best?
    Dustin

    LONGEVITY ForceCut LP-50D High Frequency Plasma Cutter
    HF 80 Amp inverter welder
    HF 4 1/2" angle grinder
    HF 5 piece Ball pien hammer set
    Husky Air Scout 3 gallon Compressor
    Rigid Metal chop saw
    RYOBI 12" Drill press
    And a crap load of klien tools rockonicon

  5. #25
    Freddytk421's Avatar
    Freddytk421 is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Austin Texas
    Posts
    188
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    Just drag it with no weaving. weaving is if you want to keep something from getting too hot and you want all the heat you can get with that machine. just go slow and straight. thats what I do on that model on 1/4 inch. Its hard to tell with that one because the slag builds up and you cant see the puddle, "use the force luke". Just try going extra slow as practice.
    watch my youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/freddytk421
    Hammer
    Drill
    Grinder
    Welder
    Saw
    Who could ask for anything more?GreenSmoking

  6. #26
    Dustendee is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Oceanside
    Posts
    148
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    HA! Thanks Jedi master I will practice, practice, practice until i get my LC520D and practice more and with that little box i will go slow.

    Thanks!!
    Dustin

    LONGEVITY ForceCut LP-50D High Frequency Plasma Cutter
    HF 80 Amp inverter welder
    HF 4 1/2" angle grinder
    HF 5 piece Ball pien hammer set
    Husky Air Scout 3 gallon Compressor
    Rigid Metal chop saw
    RYOBI 12" Drill press
    And a crap load of klien tools rockonicon

  7. #27
    arandall's Avatar
    arandall is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    1,363
    Images
    60
    Thanks
    25
    Thanked 15 Times in 15 Posts
    I'm no expert either, but the top pictures do look like you need more heat. - and maybe slow down a bit.

    Cheers,
    Art R.
    Cheers,
    Art R.

    Longevity LS200-PI multi-purpose cutter/welder,
    Miller 180 Auto-Set MIG,
    Custom 5hp compressor,

  8. #28
    Dustendee is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Oceanside
    Posts
    148
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Yeah, it probably needs more heat this little HF 80 inverter welder is still an awesome buy in my opinion its just so small and compact and to a more experianceed welder could probably form a better bead with that thing i just need to slow down like you said and practice. Thanks for your advice!
    Dustin

    LONGEVITY ForceCut LP-50D High Frequency Plasma Cutter
    HF 80 Amp inverter welder
    HF 4 1/2" angle grinder
    HF 5 piece Ball pien hammer set
    Husky Air Scout 3 gallon Compressor
    Rigid Metal chop saw
    RYOBI 12" Drill press
    And a crap load of klien tools rockonicon

  9. #29
    tking is offline Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    25
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    My comment after seeing the pictures is that you need more heat - just like others have said. Higher setting if possible, or drop down in rod size. Also, make sure you have a bare metal surface. One of the HF $9.99 angle grinders with some cutting and grinding wheels is an absolute must. I have 7 different angle grinders and 2 of the cheepies from HF and haven't killed one yet. I still am tempted to buy another one every time I see them.

  10. #30
    Hamstn's Avatar
    Hamstn is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    SW Idaho
    Posts
    196
    Images
    3
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Yep more heat. The third picture has a good weld for the last bit of the bead. The heat had time to build up in the metal.

    I would just practice on a flat piece before moving to a joint weld. Just lay bead after bead close together and try to cover the whole piece with weld. Build a pad so to speak. Just keep running beads and you will get the hang of it. Turn the amperage up or try a smaller diameter rod.

    As far as trying to do any motion at first is daunting. Hard to explain but if your angle is correct you can sort of just let the rod burn down and it will move forward, leave a good bead with out moving side to side or forward and backwards. Then you can add a "C" or figure 8 motion to build up a wide gap, pad ect.

    Keep up the good work
    Miller Big 40G
    Thunderbolt 225
    Power Master 256
    O/A Torch
    Homemade 50t Hydraulic Press
    RF-30 Mill Drill
    Cincinnati 15 x 54 Tray Top Lathe

Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 
 
www.longevity-inc.com | About us | Products | Rentals | Resources | Dealers | Order Status | Contact us | Help & Faqs | Site Map