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Thread: hello

  1. #21
    rustycase's Avatar
    rustycase is offline Senior Member
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    Should be able to... just will have no HF start so you gotta scratch start. or lift arc as some call it.
    But I never actually did it, so don't take that to the bank...
    rc
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    & I am a pathological liar and functional illiterate.

  2. #22
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    Gadget is offline Moderator
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    You won't have any control on the clean width but other than that it should work.
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  3. #23
    beadboy is offline Junior Member
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    Ill try to post some pictures if I can figure out how to. Its a beast though an older one Thanks for your posts guys jake

  4. #24
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    Hi Jake and welcome,

    One thing that the welder I have been working with taught me is to pull a long arc when stick welding. To start an arc you strike the electrode like a match and then my first instinct was to get the rod close to the work piece to avoid spatter and start my weld. If you do the match strike routine and then keep the electrode away from the work piece about 1/2 inch or so you will generate a long arc. It can take a couple of tries to get the distance right but once you get it it give you an extra second to actually see the piece you are working on through the shaded lens (not as crucial if you are using an autodark) and it preheats the work piece a little which can make it less like you will stick. Once you have your bearings after the arc is struck then you can move the rod where you want to start depositing metal and bring it closer to the work surface. Long arcs generate a lot of heat as the energy required to bridge the gap between the work piece and the electrode is greater than farther the two are apart so in thin material you will blow through quickly.

    Hopefully the long arc trick helps you, and if any of my information is off let me know as I am pretty new to this also.

    Dave
    Equipment Used:
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  5. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to d4ve For This Useful Post:

    arandall (05-10-2011), beadboy (05-10-2011)

  6. #25
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    Thanks for that Dave. I'm going to try it myself.
    Cheers,
    Art R.

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  7. #26
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    Forney are good welders. I know they make some pretty dang good supplies too.

    6013's are smooth as butter. I run some 1/8 6013's at about 90-95 amps. They kinda like a 7018, what I would call a "drag" rod. You can get em started and let the flux ride on the base material and feed em in the puddle slow with a slight weaving action and they will make the tightest, smoothest, ripple weld you ever want to look at. Kids (the girls) in my class like them because the welds sometimes have a "rainbow" color in the bead and they can make "pretty" welds with them. Had one last year that could write in cursive with them on her metal and left messages for the boys in the other classes just to piss em off. It would look like she did it with a pen or pencil.
    Just Sensible Concepts
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  9. #27
    beadboy is offline Junior Member
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    thank you for the information dave and Bluesman i appericate it. I will have to try out some 7018s with the forney. Ive ran some passes with a 6013 and they did weld very nice. I'll have to try the long arc ive never tryed that before. The old forney seems to weld very nice. I have some 5/32 6011 rods ive been wanting to try. Any tips or pointers? thanks again Jake

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