Should be able to... just will have no HF start so you gotta scratch start. or lift arc as some call it.
But I never actually did it, so don't take that to the bank...
rc
Should be able to... just will have no HF start so you gotta scratch start. or lift arc as some call it.
But I never actually did it, so don't take that to the bank...
rc
Longevity Stickweld 140 Lunchbox Baby!
Redi Arc & Craftsman AC boxes
200P 3 in 1
Harris gages/Victor & Smiths torches
101.07301 project
Large pile of saws & drills
Wheel barrow full a sanders N' grinders
truckloads of woodworking tools
the paint pumps, ladders and stuff
rock n mud tools & plumbin stuff
Lapidary thangs
mekanik tools
& I am a pathological liar and functional illiterate.
You won't have any control on the clean width but other than that it should work.
Units owned
Longevity WeldPro LS200PI (IGBT)
Force Cut LP80 plasma cutter
Longevity auto dark welding helmet
Atlas 10x36" lathe
Craftsman 5HP 30 Gal compressor
Home made CNC router/plasma/hot wire foam cutting table powered by Longevity Force Cut LP80
Home built aluminum foundry, HF 4x6 bandsaw, O/A torch
Ill try to post some pictures if I can figure out how to. Its a beast though an older one Thanks for your posts guys jake
Hi Jake and welcome,
One thing that the welder I have been working with taught me is to pull a long arc when stick welding. To start an arc you strike the electrode like a match and then my first instinct was to get the rod close to the work piece to avoid spatter and start my weld. If you do the match strike routine and then keep the electrode away from the work piece about 1/2 inch or so you will generate a long arc. It can take a couple of tries to get the distance right but once you get it it give you an extra second to actually see the piece you are working on through the shaded lens (not as crucial if you are using an autodark) and it preheats the work piece a little which can make it less like you will stick. Once you have your bearings after the arc is struck then you can move the rod where you want to start depositing metal and bring it closer to the work surface. Long arcs generate a lot of heat as the energy required to bridge the gap between the work piece and the electrode is greater than farther the two are apart so in thin material you will blow through quickly.
Hopefully the long arc trick helps you, and if any of my information is off let me know as I am pretty new to this also.
Dave
Equipment Used:
- Miller Maxstar 200 Stick Machine
- Hobart Stellar CC/CV
- Victor O/A
Thanks for that Dave. I'm going to try it myself.
Cheers,
Art R.
Longevity LS200-PI multi-purpose cutter/welder,
Miller 180 Auto-Set MIG,
Custom 5hp compressor,
Forney are good welders. I know they make some pretty dang good supplies too.
6013's are smooth as butter. I run some 1/8 6013's at about 90-95 amps. They kinda like a 7018, what I would call a "drag" rod. You can get em started and let the flux ride on the base material and feed em in the puddle slow with a slight weaving action and they will make the tightest, smoothest, ripple weld you ever want to look at. Kids (the girls) in my class like them because the welds sometimes have a "rainbow" color in the bead and they can make "pretty" welds with them. Had one last year that could write in cursive with them on her metal and left messages for the boys in the other classes just to piss em off. It would look like she did it with a pen or pencil.
Just Sensible Concepts
*Longevity Weldall 160PI (technically it's not mine but it is on MY inventory for my shop at work)
Lincoln Weldanpower 200
Lincoln Pro Mig 180
Lincoln AC225
beadboy (05-10-2011)
thank you for the information dave and Bluesman i appericate it. I will have to try out some 7018s with the forney. Ive ran some passes with a 6013 and they did weld very nice. I'll have to try the long arc ive never tryed that before. The old forney seems to weld very nice. I have some 5/32 6011 rods ive been wanting to try. Any tips or pointers? thanks again Jake
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