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Thread: Just scored a SS

  1. #1
    Charley Davidson's Avatar
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    Just scored a SS

    Slant six that is, A guy is giving me a slant six out of a running Valarie I just have to pull it and give him mine. Then we will scrap the car on halves after he takes the sell-able parts.

    Oh, it's a 225 auto
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    those old chrysler motors were danged near bullet proof, but they are the reason why its called "slopar" instead of "mopar"
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  3. #3
    Charley Davidson's Avatar
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    I just hope to "Gofar" on a $
    Millermatic 140
    Thermodynamics 190C plasma cutter
    Plasma Trace (custom built by me)
    Victor O/A torch HVAC size
    Craftsman 15" floor model drill press
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    Porter Cable 60 gallon compressor
    Clarke parts washer
    Craftsman 10" table saw
    Ryobi 8 1/2" sliding miter saw
    Homemade bench top english wheel
    Homemade plannishing hammer
    Tons of hand power tools
    1500 sq ft shop
    & an over active imagination

  4. #4
    Charley Davidson's Avatar
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    Here's the truck motor
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    And here's the new motor originally out of a 73 duster. It is electronic ignition and auto, what all do I need to keep from under the hood for this swap?
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    Millermatic 140
    Thermodynamics 190C plasma cutter
    Plasma Trace (custom built by me)
    Victor O/A torch HVAC size
    Craftsman 15" floor model drill press
    Craftsman 6" metal lathe
    Wilton horizontal band saw
    Porter Cable 60 gallon compressor
    Clarke parts washer
    Craftsman 10" table saw
    Ryobi 8 1/2" sliding miter saw
    Homemade bench top english wheel
    Homemade plannishing hammer
    Tons of hand power tools
    1500 sq ft shop
    & an over active imagination

  5. #5
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    the ignition... stay away from the old points and condensor.... and an fyi...... the old slopar motors were famous for "shorting out" the ignition coils..... buy a couple extra and keep em in the glove box OR switch over to solid core plug wires and never be able to have a radio..... your choice....
    Torchmate 5 x 10 custom built CNC table
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    Thermal Dynamics a-60 automated cutter
    Thermal cutmaster 52 handheld cutter
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    '99 250 trailblazer
    12vs extreme suitcase feeder
    2 (each) xr-a 50 foot push-pull feeders (for aluminum mig)
    800 ton break
    400 ton shear
    MM350p
    xmt 304
    (do i REALLY need to keep going?)

    nothing fancy, just a few hot glue guns for metal

    www.sicfabrications.com

  6. #6
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    I am not a mopar guy per se but there should be a silver box that takes the place of the points it can be called an "ignitor" amongst other things. It will have a triangle connector if I remember right but there maybe only 2 wires to it. (we are going off a 30 year old memory). Take the wires unless you want to rewire it and keep a spare in the glovebox as these were notorious for heating up and failing until they cooled back down again. Maybe they have been fixed now days. Heres a pic

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  7. #7
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    The '73 should have electronic ignition. The ballast resistors were the fail point. As long as the coil impedance is correct, they will live a long time though.

    Hang onto the distributor and everything bolted to the engine. You are going to want the wiring harness from the firewall connector forward. Keep all linkages. The kickdown linkage will be for a Holley 1 bbl. If you SuperSix it with a BBD, you will need a different kickdown linkage. The easiest way to work with aftermarket carbs, like the AFB or Holley two and four barrels, Lokar makes a cable kickdown. I use them with four barrel carbs.
    Looks like you have a holley 1945 on the Volare. Can't see under the pie tin, but the likely carburetor is a Holley 1920. (Side bowl) Since Rebuilts are such a crap shooot, keep the old carbs. The only other carburetor that may be in use on the slant is the Carter BBS, but wouldn't normally be on that year car. the Volare may have come with an aluminum 1bbl intake. They can be porous and have vacuum leaks. Nothing a coat of paint won't solve.
    Keep the manifolds. Save all triangle washers and the round and acorn looking ones. It's getting harder to come by some of the parts. They are out there, but not off the shelf anymore. The Volare may have a 2-1/4" head pipe. It will flow much better than the 1-7/8" stock pipe on your truck, or on the '73. All the exhaust manifolds are the same, with the exception of non-EGR ones.
    Keep all the emissions stuff intact. For efficiency, the EGR system on the later A-Body and the Volare F-Body are useful. You will have to swap the pan and oil pickup tube from the truck to whichever engine your going to use.
    Of special interest, check the stamping on the top of the deck just beneath spark plug #1 on the 73 engine. Post the numbers you find there for a decode.
    If your very lucky it'll be a 198. The Rods from a 198 are in high demand. There is an obscure LG build using the 198 Crank in the 170 inch slant for a 210 stroker using a 0.100" overbore too. I have one of those engines tucked away somewhere in my shop. It is unlikely you will find a 198, but you never know. Most will have the 225.
    Regardless of which engine size it is, the 73 should have two letters cast into the driver's side rear of the block. BH is the most desireable performance block to build, because it has the strongest webbing. Anything with the B* in that era will be desireable. Even if you don't build power, the long stroke of these engines can cause bore missalignment. Stonger is better.

    Stock, the slant isn't a power house, but there is power to be had in there. When Mopar designed the head, it was for a 170 Cubic Inch engine. It breaths very well for the 170. A bit of work, and there is some good power there. One has to be careful, because there is also water, and close in some spots.
    The stock 225 engines peak around 8:1 Compression. They also run torque converters that stall fairly low because to the torque characteristics of the long stroke engine. (225 carries a 4.125" Stroke.)
    Bump the compression, and put a bit more stall in there, and you've got something. CC the head and measure how far down the bore the top of the piston is. Do some math, and get the compression. .066" will drop it 1cc.

    Your engine has a "Drool Tube" Head. The Volare will have the "Peanut Plug" Head. To avoid leaks, run the Peanut, for better spark plug choices, run the Drool tube. Remember to remove the crush washers from the spark plugs in your drool tube engine. The spark plug tube provides the sealing surface, and the plug will overheat with the crush washer in place.
    Owners of drool tube heads generally choose the NGK ZFR5N spark plug in stock 8:1 to 9.5:1 builds. It is an extended tip plug that performs very well.
    For higher compression, like my 10.7:1 Slant, I run the NGK ZFR6FIX-11 Iridium to reduce heat range and decrease the hot spot with the smaller electrode. (Reduces tendency to detonate.)
    For my 12:1 Slant, and those of the Methanol crowd there are other choices.

    TMI?

    CJ

  8. #8
    Charley Davidson's Avatar
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    WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm just doing a swap, not opening up the engine at all, just gonna clean it up & maybe paint it. I can't believe I'm saying this but I really don't care about performance other than fuel mileage. I will go through all this info though and take what I need.

    After I have it in my truck and satisfied it's a good motor I will let him have mine. He drove it here & I drove it last night and again this morning.

    Thanks Charley
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    Porter Cable 60 gallon compressor
    Clarke parts washer
    Craftsman 10" table saw
    Ryobi 8 1/2" sliding miter saw
    Homemade bench top english wheel
    Homemade plannishing hammer
    Tons of hand power tools
    1500 sq ft shop
    & an over active imagination

  9. #9
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    This is wy I pay mechanics - I don't understand a thing any of you are saying! Good luck with the swap out Charley.
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    yep. they could run forever...
    nothing to shout about, but they could run forever.
    rc

    ...they DO have quad manifolds for them!

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