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  • LONGEVITY STICKWELD 140 AMP Stick Welder Initial Review

    Longevity Stickweld 140

    Ordered: 5/13/11
    Received: via Fedex @ 10am 5/18/11

    Doctor's apt today @ 11am, so I let it set.
    (suppose I'm masochistic, went to the CA DMV after the Doc appointment!)

    By 7pm I've opened the parcel.
    The packing is sound, and quite sufficient for the goods contained within.



    There was a small 2" gash on the exterior of the carton, and NO damage within.

    Here's the suitcase, tucked within the protection!

    The blow-molded 'suitcase' had a small blem... Who cares! NOT me.

    This is the protection for the suitcase!!! NICE job!


    Everything was neatly packed inside, and included an INSTRUCTION BOOKLET !
    Power unit and booklet were each wrapped in plastic, remainder of the components were within a cardboard carton.

    I HAD to inspect the power unit first!

    The gloss black powder coat & Longevity silkscreen are excellent. 1st cabin!
    The current adjustment rheostat on the front of the unit has a thin knob which seems a tad on the long side, yet it feels firm and substantial.
    The 6ft #12 power cord is likewise hefty.
    The rocker style power switch on the back of the machine is also stout when activated.
    The cooling fan is 4 1/2" full width of the case.

    I proceeded to the carton of parts included.

    First chuckle was the handheld face shield... assembly required !
    2nd was the red rodholder... on inspection, it seemed to be quite serviceable.
    The ground clamp is good for nearly a belly laugh. LOL
    (But that's not to say it would not function well enough for lite projects.)
    The three prong connector plug is not fastened to the cord. It is produced by that well known firm, YouCheng! All jest aside, it seems to be a stout product.
    The 'chipping hammer/wire brush' is cute. I'll bet it could be quite handy for small projects. In fact, I DO have bicycle frame welding projects on the slate.
    The ground lead and stinger lead are 5ft each, and appear to be 8gage multi-strand, and quite flexible. Nice, in fact.

    I'll need to review the instruction booklet more closely, yet it seems at first glance that Longevity has such confidence in the build quality that they are willing to exceed the R-tech 2 year warranty by 3 additional years. Bonus !

    I'll pop the cover next ! (I can NOT resist.)

    OKay... !
    Here's some instruction on that, which are NOT included within the manual... even though the manual DOES advise removing the cover periodically to blow dust from inside the unit.

    It is NOT necessary to remove the two screws from the front legs, underneath the unit. Only the (hard to find) screw underneath the strap at the top of the front panel must be removed. The front panel itself does NOT need to be removed to open the case. Internal connections to the female dinse connectors prevent removal of the front panel at this stage.

    The REAR panel must be removed by taking out the screws in the two rear legs and the small screw on top under the strap before flipping the rear cover upwards and off. (One of the small phillips screw heads stripped on me when loosening it. )

    Then, remove the four screws on the sides holding the cover. It will then slide back and lift off, free of the machine.

    The interior of the box is impressive!
    It is orderly, well assembled, and seems robust for its amperage.
    The transformer for the control power supply is on top, and obviously robust.
    Please note there is a fuse soldered into the main power input next to the transformer. (IMO, this fuse should be replaceable, and accessible from the exterior of the machine.)


    There are two larger transformers below, on the base level, along with the rectifier section.




    I was once trained as an electronics technician, yet never pursued that avenue,
    so I am unable to comment on specific components or circuitry, yet it is obvious significant heat sinks are employed within the power unit, all with substantial cooling fins.
    (I DID like that my brand XX machine had a shot of hot glue on all the connectors within the unit, which would prevent them from coming loose in transit. THIS machine IS intended primarily for portable use, and could well benefit from that treatment.)

    All told, I must repeat that I'm impressed. The framework is stout, circuitboard fasteners accessible, leads and connectors generous, and should a problem arise, following appropriate diagnosis, a circuitboard could conceivably be removed for replacement, in the field.

    I'm bushed! Roasted all around! LOL
    Considering I'm presently radioactive, following a nuclear stress test, earlier today, I'll need to complete this preliminary review of the Longevity StickWeld 140 tomorrow. I'll button it up, review the manual in detail, and maybe gather some lighter rod than I have on hand and proceed with the smoke test.

    Best
    rc
    This article was originally published in forum thread: StickWeld 140 started by rustycase View original post
    Comments 1 Comment
    1. tigqk's Avatar
      tigqk -
      Might be a god idea if you have some experience soldering is to desolder the fuse and put in a fuse socket now, in any case the fuse is likely their to prevent the unit from becoming unserviceable should some unforseen high transients occur.
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    deereman75

    That was a good article. Shield arc on TBN just gave me some advise, mainly move the ground clamp, and if that doesnt work, beat it with a sledge hammer.

    Today sucked

    deereman75 Today, 07:01 PM Go to last post
    undercut

    I see. Sorry, didn't read your initial post properly. Only on the T-welds?? The following link might help. Note the sections where it talks about

    Today sucked

    undercut Today, 06:50 PM Go to last post
    deereman75

    For me, I would never buy 7014. They are a lot weaker then 7018, and I cant see them being easier to run. If you want an example why, go to tractorbynet,

    Does 7018 really require special storage?

    deereman75 Today, 06:44 PM Go to last post
    undercut

    I'm obviously reading these in the wrong order. Sorry about your bad day. Just checking the prices of 7014 and 7018 rods in my area. I'm leaning towards

    Does 7018 really require special storage?

    undercut Today, 06:42 PM Go to last post
    deereman75

    The 7018 is what I started with, same rods as yesterday. I was strange that on the same piece of metal, a joint would have bad arc blow, but if I weld

    Today sucked

    deereman75 Today, 06:39 PM Go to last post
 
 
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