diagram for 110/220 pigtail here

**weldingtwopotatoes** · 10-01-2009, 07:49 PM

Basically what I was thinking of doing but I was just going to by some bulk 10/3 wire to do it. I should price it out in comparison to finished extension cords and just cut off one end like you show in your photo. Thanks for the photo.

**Gadget** · 10-01-2009, 08:21 PM

I got lucky and found a 25' chunk of 10/3 stranded at a garage sale for $3.00, made a great extension. The Weldpro LS200PI unit came with a cable that was about 8 feet long too so I have lots of mobility when I need it.

**weldingtwopotatoes** · 10-02-2009, 01:44 AM

What a find. I wish I could find something like that, that cable isn't cheap at home depot.

**henrym** · 10-11-2009, 08:52 PM

On the subject of wiring for 120V; does it matter which wire goes where with a 520D? OBVIOUSLY ground must be GROUND, but for the 120V hot & neutral (black, white) is there a "correct" polarity? how can one determine such a thing? both wires go to the switch...

**Gadget** · 10-11-2009, 09:06 PM

In AC 120V black is always the hot wire and white is the neutral, green is ground. At the breaker box the white and green get connected to the same ground lug. At the wall socket the longer slot is the ground (left slot with ground at the bottom)

**vault** · 10-12-2009, 12:57 PM

When you are wireing a outlet for 120V it is standard practice to connect the black (hot)wire to the Gold colored screw on the receptical this is also corresponds to the shorter of the two slots on the front. The Neutral (white/grounded Conductor) connects to the silver screw which corresponds to the longer slot on the front of the recepitcal. The EQUIPMENT GROUNDING CONDUCTOR is green and is connected to the green lug.

GADGET: I do not know if you confused the trems gorunded conductor/neutral with equipment grounding conductor but the slot you identified should not be tremed the "ground" the ground refers to the equipment grounding conductor(bare or green wire) and not the grounded conductor (white/neutral wire)

---------- Post added at 05:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:47 PM ----------

Originally Posted by Gadget

At the breaker box the white and green get connected to the same ground lug. At the wall socket the longer slot is the ground (left slot with ground at the bottom)

I'm not triing to spit hairs with you-- just trying to explain things so everyone has more of an understanding. In the "breaker box" the neutral and ground are not connected to the same lug. the nuetral bar is bonded to the equipment ground via a bonding strap or wire creating two potential paths to ground.

1) through the ground rod
2) through the utility's service ground

In residential electrical systems this is the only place the nuetral and ground are allowed to be bonded together.

**Gadget** · 10-12-2009, 05:24 PM

It's been awhile since I did any wiring so maybe things have changed. When I wired my garage I connected the white and ground wires to the same neutral bar and it was approved by the inspector. At any rate, anything to make it clearer is welcomed.

**vault** · 10-12-2009, 11:40 PM

Originally Posted by Gadget

It's been awhile since I did any wiring so maybe things have changed. When I wired my garage I connected the white and ground wires to the same neutral bar and it was approved by the inspector. At any rate, anything to make it clearer is welcomed.

some boxes do not have separate bar for the equipment grounding conductors and the neutral and grounds are connected to the same bar but never under the same lug.

**henrym** · 10-13-2009, 12:38 AM

Originally Posted by henrym

On the subject of wiring for 120V; does it matter which wire goes where with a 520D? OBVIOUSLY ground must be GROUND, but for the 120V hot & neutral (black, white) is there a "correct" polarity? how can one determine such a thing? both wires go to the switch...

sooo I guess it does not matter which wire is hot for 120V input? since both AC input wires go to the welder's switch, I guess that is all that matters...?

**robrob** · 10-13-2009, 09:24 AM

The missing piece of the 110v pigtail puzzle is which power cord wire from the welder is connected to the 110v hot (black) wire. Your dual-voltage welder's manual should specify. In one of the manuals I saw they specified the welder's yellow wire for 110v hot so you would make sure it was connected to the 220v power plug's narrow pin, the other hot wire to the wide pin, and the ground wire to the ground pin.

You would then wire the 110v pigtail the same way on both ends--the narrow pin to the hot (black) wire and the neutral (white) wire goes to the wide pin and of course ground to ground.

Rob