110/220 volt adapter

[KHK]

HerbD, below are the specs for the 200P welder. This machine is rated at 220/208 Vac either you stated the wrong welder number or I have looked up the wrong unit.

200P Specifications:

Operating Voltage:
208/220vac 50/60HZ Input Single Phase 1PH
50amp cut draws 22.7A at 5KVA
40amp cut draws 17.6A at 3.8KVA
230V No Load Voltage

Please advise

keith

[HerbD]

Thanks Kieth,

Yes, I see the input specs too. I've pasted the specs below plus a reference to "Rated output current under both AC 110V and 220V" under the accompanying paragraph a little further down in the specs which refers to the included 50 amp plasma cutter (I underlined and bold faced). Just asking, what does this refer to?

[u]For Weldall 200 P
Operating Voltage:
208/220vac 50/60HZ Input Single Phase 1PH
50amp cut draws 22.7A at 5KVA
40amp cut draws 17.6A at 3.8KVA
230V No Load Voltage

Plasma Cutting Specs:
3" Per minute @ 1.0" Steel (Severance Cut)
7" Per minute @ 3/4" Thick Steel
17" Per minute @ 1/2" Thick Steel

* 50 Amp Plasma cutter: Duty Cycle 60% at 50 Amp and 100% at 30 Amps. 0.5 inches clean cut with 7.2 inches per minutes; 3/4 inches severance cut with 3.1 inches per minute. Rated Output Current is 40Amps under both AC 110V and 220V. Works in both 50 and 60 Hz with operating air pressure as 65 psi @ 3 cfm.

Herb

[KHK]

HerbD
We are both correct, but something is wrong. I think that the online specks are scerwed! You need to contact Jessey at Longevity for some varification. If the werlder works on 120vac, it should be stated in the first section and the second as well. I know that the specks for the dimentions of the welder are wrong.

I would NOT connect the welder to 120 volt until you get verification from Longevity.

keith

[henrym]

as far as I can tell, using 110 instead of 220 with draw twice the input current for the same output. some machines are intended for both voltages but have reduced duty cycle and limited output with 110v compared to 220v.

eg: 208/220vac 50/60HZ Input Single Phase
50amp cut draws 22.7A at 5KVA

at 110v a 50amp cut would have to draw about 45.4 amps, if the output in not limited in 110v mode. (if it accepts 110 at all)

I have a dual voltage unit and made an adapter cord myself. very convenient!

[HerbD]

Thanks Kieth and Henry,

I'll stick with the 220v, was just wondering (not an electrician). I would have liked a dual voltage machine but wanted the higher output for aluminum castings etc, my choice. There's never a free lunch

When I saw the lead post in this series I noticed that Art had listed the 200 P machine and gave a good description of the cheater cord. When I went back and read his post again I realize he was referring to a former machine he had used which was likely a dual voltage machine and was just offering his solution to the cord issue.

Thanks again for the quick responses.

Herb

[oops]

Oops
Thanks for the input on my little problem . I have now wired for 220 then made the cheater plug great idea. Now the machine is safe.

[robrob]

I followed Keith's instructions and built a 115v-240v pigtail. Here's the LS-200PI power cord on the right and the conversion cord on the left. The LS-200PI is not a dual voltage welder and did not function with this 115 volt pigtail. For both cords it's very important to connect the green ground wire to the ground pin. Again for both cords I connected the black wire to the narrow pin, and the white wire to the wide pin.

240 volt welders do not come with a power cord plug. There are too many types of 240v plugs so they just let you pick the one you need. Just purchase the 240v plug that matches your receptacle. I picked up everything shown here at Home Depot. The 240v plugs and receptacles were about $13 each. Make sure your plugs are rated for 240v and at least 40 amps like the plugs below. I used a 12/3 (12 gauge 3 wire) 20 amp, 25 foot extension cord for the 115v pigtail. I cut off the female end of the extension cord and wired up the 240v receptacle. I powered up my LS-200PI welder with the 115v pigtail and it read a max amps of 105 at full power, verses 200 when connected to 240 volts, but would not weld.



Here's another shot of the cords including a 240 volt extension cord I made on the left. The extension cord uses 10/3 (10 gauge 3 wire) stranded wire. The 10/3 stranded wire was about $1.20 a foot from Home Depot. Use stranded wire so the cord will be flexible. If you use 10/3 solid copper (Romex) it will be very stiff. The 240v extension cord was very easy to wire, just connect both ends the same way--green wires to the center ground pins, the black wires to the narrow pins, and the white wires to the wide pins.



Here's a closeup of the 240 volt power plug for my LS-200PI.



Here's a closeup of the 115 volt pigtail.



Thanks again Keith for helping me figure this out.

Rob

[matteh99]

I made an adapter also.

For my cord I used an old computer power cord because I have tons of them. They were all 18 gauge I hope that it is thick enough .

Does anyone know what the recommended wire size is when running 120v?

Eric

[robrob]

18 gauge is pretty thin and not adequate to run a 110 volt welder. I wouldn't recommend anything less than 12 gauge. Your welder may be choked for power and you may even melt the insulation on your cord. If you try using it (but I don't recommend it) you should check the cord every couple of minutes to see how hot it gets and don't be surprised if the welder "acts funny." Be careful, that cord is a real fire hazard. There's a reason Longevity supplies a 10 gauge 3 conductor cord with their 220 volt welders.

[KHK]

You must have at least 12 ga wire for your cheater cord. The one that you are using is a safty hazard, fire hazard. I would replace it ASAP.