Suspension Analyzer or equivalent is the ticket. I wish I had purchased a program as it would saved me a lot of time.
Suspension Analyzer or equivalent is the ticket. I wish I had purchased a program as it would saved me a lot of time.
"Man is the best computer we can put aboard a spacecraft ... and the only one that can be mass-produced with unskilled labor"
Apollo 11 W.V. Braun
Have ForceCut80I, Precision TIG 185, Ideal Arc 250, Oxy-Acetylene, Tig welding Chamber, 14 Ton pipe bender, 20 Ton press, Electric sheet metal shear, 12 inch- 0.125 Shear, 12 inch Metal Band Saw, Power Hack Saw, Abrasive Chop Saws, 2 Mills, 5 Lathes, and lots of other items
I'm definitely not purchasing it, I'm using the free trial download. I think it's only good for two days so I need to have my junk together before I go to town on my junk.
Will Ellis
Current Equipment:
Snap-On (Miller/Hobart) M135X [being upgraded]
Longevity ArcMate 205
Longevity ForceCut LP-50D Pilot Arc
Setup a second machine, have a freind download it again, and when you boot up each day, reset the calendar before you run the applicationMaybe you could set the machine to 1901. Good luck with the design.
"Man is the best computer we can put aboard a spacecraft ... and the only one that can be mass-produced with unskilled labor"
Apollo 11 W.V. Braun
Have ForceCut80I, Precision TIG 185, Ideal Arc 250, Oxy-Acetylene, Tig welding Chamber, 14 Ton pipe bender, 20 Ton press, Electric sheet metal shear, 12 inch- 0.125 Shear, 12 inch Metal Band Saw, Power Hack Saw, Abrasive Chop Saws, 2 Mills, 5 Lathes, and lots of other items
Does that work? Huh.
Will Ellis
Current Equipment:
Snap-On (Miller/Hobart) M135X [being upgraded]
Longevity ArcMate 205
Longevity ForceCut LP-50D Pilot Arc
Getting back to your chipping hammer, if you smack the welds wile hot it releives the tension on the weld, does nothing for the appearance though,it is more prevalent and obvious when you are welding sheetmetal - hammer forging, weld an inch, on dolly the weld, the weld disappears and removes stresses, do it again until finished - how I was taught anyhow.
As for releiving your stress on the table, plan your spotwelds and if you can place three in one side try to put three on the other side of things, and pay attention to technique, bevel where you need to to keep yourself from overwelding and do it quickly to keep the heat down.
If you havent built the chassis table yet I would seriously look around for a used frame straightening jig from an autobody shop. They are old technology now but are made of I-beams with large casters and machined top surface on the I-beams. They are around 3 ft wide. If you find the right one they even come with pinchweld clamps distance measures, etc. The shop I worked at had one. They go for scrap metal price.
Last edited by mdkrusemark; 01-10-2011 at 12:01 AM.
Mike
Krusemark Custom cars
Shop Equipment:
52x16 gauge tennsmith foot shear
48x16 gauge Mitler Bros ultimate box and pan brake
16" large radial arm saw (for steel)
Hobart handler 140
12x7 horizontal band saw
Longevity tigweld 250
w/ everlast watercooler
Longevity migweld 250P
Everlast power plasma 70
Harbor Freight large metal shrinker strecher
I have used and own a lot more equipment than this.
Already built, done and done! I looked for some old frame tables but had no luck. I haven't had a chance to put any pics of my work up here yet but I'll do that shortly.
Will Ellis
Current Equipment:
Snap-On (Miller/Hobart) M135X [being upgraded]
Longevity ArcMate 205
Longevity ForceCut LP-50D Pilot Arc
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