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Thread: Just a curious 7018 observation...

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    Bluesman's Avatar
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    Just a curious 7018 observation...

    Never have been able to figure out why sometimes the slag off a 7018 will crack, be thin and easy to get off and then the very next rod out of the same "new" box on the same piece of material using the same machine with the same settings will be hard as a dang rock, twice as thick, and nearly impossible to get chipped off... I would understand if some variables were changing or if it was a rod out of a different box or a different brand.

    This happens from time to time whether you are making a second pass (and the first one was chipped, brushed and cleaned prior to the second pass), or are just welding on the same project in a different location. I'm sure someone probably has an answer to this problem (only a problem when it is a booger to clean but otherwise is non issue). I would just like to see if someone can give an explanation.

    thanks guys, from a teacher still striving to learn... ( a teacher that isn't still actively learning new nuggets of information isn't really living up to their potential in my opinion).

    that is all
    Just Sensible Concepts
    *Longevity Weldall 160PI (technically it's not mine but it is on MY inventory for my shop at work)
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    normally when the toes are undercut its makes for hard removal
    TigWeld 250
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    Bluesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WookieWelding View Post
    normally when the toes are undercut its makes for hard removal
    This is true, but the slag I'm talking about is the concrete hard stuff on top of the weld. Usually, even when the toes are undercut the top should still chip easily but it doesn't. If it were a different piece of base metal, a different brand rod, a different operator, or machine setting was tweaked it would make sense but when all the variables are the same it just puzzles me as to why sometimes that stuff just won't let loose.
    Just Sensible Concepts
    *Longevity Weldall 160PI (technically it's not mine but it is on MY inventory for my shop at work)
    Lincoln Weldanpower 200
    Lincoln Pro Mig 180
    Lincoln AC225

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    Could it be the heat from the first weld,that the flux from the second rod is reacting to,causing it to stick better?Just guessing here.
    Guy

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    And why are they so sticky and hard to start?
    Cheers,
    Art R.

    Longevity LS200-PI multi-purpose cutter/welder,
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    WookieWelding's Avatar
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    what brand rods are you burning ?
    TigWeld 250
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    arandall's Avatar
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    I usually use either "Pro Star" or "Lincoln".
    Cheers,
    Art R.

    Longevity LS200-PI multi-purpose cutter/welder,
    Miller 180 Auto-Set MIG,
    Custom 5hp compressor,

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    try some atom arc esab

    ---------- Post added at 10:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:04 AM ----------

    also running too hot will cause it to be hard to remove arc length could be a factor here
    TigWeld 250
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    HF 100 FC
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    WeldorWeb.com

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    Bluesman's Avatar
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    I will have to check on the brand in just a sec. but I can tell you they are the ones in the blue 5lb resealable cans that Air Gas carries.
    Just Sensible Concepts
    *Longevity Weldall 160PI (technically it's not mine but it is on MY inventory for my shop at work)
    Lincoln Weldanpower 200
    Lincoln Pro Mig 180
    Lincoln AC225

  10. #10
    WookieWelding's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluesman View Post
    I will have to check on the brand in just a sec. but I can tell you they are the ones in the blue 5lb resealable cans that Air Gas carries.
    are you keeping them in a rod oven ?
    TigWeld 250
    old 1950s Master Electric engine drive DC Powersource
    HF 151 Mig
    HF 100 FC
    Victor Journeyman Oxy/Ace set up
    Bunch of tools of the trade to much to list
    WeldorWeb.com

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