WeldAll LS-200PI Review with Pics

[robrob]

I received my IGBT WeldAll LS-200PI Multi-Process welder/cutter today. I wanted to show how it was packed, show how I hooked up the power cable, and give a short review of this impressive machine.

Here's how it looked after UPS dropped it off. The top box contains the accessories.



Here's how the LS-200PI was packed. It's a good idea to keep the box and packing for moving day.









The only issue I had with shipping was the large front air/gas regulator knob was loose. It may have been that way on purpose to keep it from protruding too much and being damaged during shipping. I had trouble tightening the exterior lock nut without actually rotating the whole regulator so I removed all the screws on the top cover, pulled the cover off and tightened up the lock nut. The knob wasn't damaged, just loose. After pulling the cover I realized that all I really needed to do was push in the regulator knob to lock it, hold the knob then tighten the lock nut as tight as possible by hand. So opening the case wasn't really necessary.

Not included with the welder but needed are: a 240 volt power cord plug, electrodes for stick welding, and for TIG welding Tungsten electrodes, filler rods and a tank of Argon gas. The tank pictured below is 20 cubic feet in size and cost $105--$75 for the tank and $30 for the gas. Forty, 60, 80 and larger tanks are available from your welding supply store. [Update: I traded up to an 80 CF bottle because I'm using the machine a lot more than I expected--it's too much fun!] To find a local welding store just do a Google search for, "your home town welding supply." Everything needed for plasma cutting comes with the welder.

Here's a good look at the front panel.



Here it is in a standard Harbor Freight welding cart.



Here's the included accessories.



Here's how I set up a standard air-chuck quick disconnect so I can easily go from compressed air for plasma cutting to Argon gas for TIG welding. Notice the large cooling fan and the dual-throw On/Off switch.



Here's the power cord on the right and a 115 volt conversion cord on the left. The power cord appears to be a 10/3 (10 gauge 3 wire) stranded wire cord. For both cords it's very important to connect the green ground wire to the ground pin. The LS-200PI's green ground wire is connected directly to the machine's chassis. For both cords I connected the black wire to the narrow pin, and the white wire to the wide pin. The LS-200PI did not come with a power cord plug. There are too many types of 240v plugs so they just let you pick the one you need. Just purchase the 240v plug that matches your receptacle. I picked mine up at Home Depot for $13. Make sure your plug is rated for at least 220 volts and 40 amps like the plugs below.



Here's another shot of the cords including a 240 volt extension cord I made on the left.



Here's a close-up of the power cord 240v plug.



Here's a close-up of the 115v pigtail. The LS-200PI is not a dual voltage welder and will not function with this 115 volt pigtail, but this cord could be used with a dual voltage welder to power it with a standard 115 volt receptacle. On both ends of the pigtail the black (hot) wire connects to the narrow pins, the neutral (white) wire connects to the wide pins. The green ground wire connects to the central grounding pins.



While I had the cover off to tighten up the regulator knob I took a few pics.









After attaching the 240v power cord plug and hooking up the Argon I was almost ready to weld. I started the assembly of the TIG torch by sharpening an electrode using the side of my grinding wheel. The side of the grinding wheel has never been used before so it won't contaminate the electrode. I matched up the electrode to the correct size collet (three sizes are supplied), pushed the electrode into the collet, then slid the collet into the torch. I screwed on the # 5 gas lens and slid the electrode out so it extended about 3/16 of an inch beyond the gas lens. I then screwed the electrode cap over the electrode and gently tightened it down finger tight to secure the electrode.

Assembling the TIG torch.



First a disclaimer: I'm a novice welder with only a little MIG wire feed welding experience.

With that said, I set the controls for TIG DC, non-pulse, and minimum Base current. I opened the Argon gas shutoff knob and opened the gas regulator a little, pressed the TIG torch control and adjusted the gas flow to 18 CFH. During this adjustment the air was purged out of the torch gas line. I started welding on scrap 1/8 inch steel and was surprised that I was able to control the TIG arc as well as I did right from the start. I could also see much better while TIG welding as compared to MIG. While MIG welding I have always had difficulty seeing anything even when using a nice auto-darkening welding helmet.

I am happy to confirm the pulse mode on the LS-200PI works in both the DC and AC modes--just like the big-dollar rigs. AC pulse is a really nice, high-end feature. When pulse mode is on the amp indicator bounces back and forth between Base and Pulse current. I turned the Pulse frequency down to it's lowest setting, one cycle every two seconds, so I could read the Base and Pulse (peak) amps, making it easy to adjust both. Once the two current settings were made I then set the Pulse Frequency where desired. You can also set pulse mode power by setting the Pulse current knob to full left, then set the Base current, then set the Pulse (peak) amps.

Note the front panel regulator controls air and gas flow so set it for 65 psi air pressure then set the Argon gas flow using the regulator on the gas bottle to around 18 CFH (cubic feet per hour).

I tried out stick welding for the first time and was pleasantly surprised I didn't set my garage on fire.

I used the plasma cutter on the scrap metal and it sliced through it like butter--very nice. A clip-on torch spacer is included which helps you keep the torch at the right distance from the metal. It was good to see the plasma tip had been used before shipping--Longevity did test this machine before they shipped it out.

So far I'm very pleased with the build quality and function of this multi-process welder. I'm also impressed with the torches and ground clamp--they're very nice quality pieces. When you consider all you get for your money this welder/cutter is a fantastic value.

After a few weeks of use I'm still in love with this welder/cutter. I'll add more to this thread as I continue to get to know the LS-200PI.

Rob Robinette

[Gadget]

Thanks for the info Rob and enjoy your new unit. You will continue to be amazed as you learn the unit.

[robrob]

Longevity WeldAll LS-200PI IGBT Multi-Process Welder/Cutter

Front Panel



Controls

Power Switch. Dual throw switch is located on the back of the unit. When finished welding or cutting always let the machine's fan run for a minute or two to cool the machine before turning the power switch off.

Power Lamp. This light illuminates while the unit is powered on.

Over Current/Overheat Warning Lamp. (lightning bolt) Illuminates when the duty cycle has been exceeded or the machine has overheated due to improper ventilation. Discontinue use until lamp goes out. Allow the fan to continue to run. Once lamp goes out, you may resume using the unit.

Digital Display. The display shows the approximate welding amps.

Three Position Function Switch. Selects Stick welding, plasma Cutting, or TIG welding.

AC/DC Switch. Use AC for Aluminum and Magnesium, DC for all other weldable metals and plasma cutting.

Base cur. (Base Current 5-200 amps welding, 20-50 amps plasma cutting) This is the primary AC & DC amperage control. Welding & cutting amperage is set using this control in the non-pulse mode. In the TIG pulse mode this knob sets the base current (low) amperage. For TIG pulse welding, first set the Pulse current knob full left, then set the desired base current (low amperage) using the Base current knob. The digital display will show the amp setting. Next use the Pulse current control to set the high amperage of the high pulse cycle. As you turn the Pulse current control to the right the digital display will increase, showing your pulse peak amps.

Foot Control. The Foot Control overrides the Base current knob--the Base current knob does not function when the Foot Control is plugged into the machine. When the Foot Control is pressed the welding current starts and increases with more pedal movement. In the pulse mode the Foot Control changes both the base (low) amps and pulse (high) amps, just as turning the Base current knob would. The Foot Control Knob can be used to reduce the maximum current allowed by the Foot Control. Placing the knob to the 5 position will limit the maximum amps to approximately 20 amps, the 6 position approximately 50 amps, 7 about 90 amps, 8 about 150, and the 9 position 200 amps. This allows the Foot Control to be less sensitive--full pedal movement will go from 5 to 100 amps welding current instead of 5 to 200 amps.

Pulse On/Off Switch. Enables pulsed AC and DC TIG welding. Pulse welding is an advanced welding technique and allows fine control over the welding process. Unless you really know what you're doing leave pulse mode off. Pulse mode gives the same effect as quickly moving the Base current knob back and forth between a low and high amp setting while welding but at a rate that would be impossible to do by hand. To set the high and low pulse currents, first set the Pulse current knob full left, then set the desired base current (low amperage) using the Base current knob. The digital display will show the amp setting. Next use the Pulse current control to set the high amperage of the high pulse cycle. As you turn the Pulse current control to the right the digital display will increase, showing your pulse peak amps.

Pulse cur. (Pulse Current 5-200 amps) Only active in pulse mode. Sets the pulse peak (high) amperage of the pulse cycle. Select the peak amperage with this control to achieve the maximum amperage requirements for the high pulse cycle. The amperage change will be reflected on the digital display.

Pulse freq. (Pulse Frequency 0.5-25 cycles per second) Only active in pulse mode. The TIG pulse frequency controls the number of pulse cycles per second (Hz). Changing the frequency sets the duration of each pulse cycle. The lower the frequency the longer the pulse. A higher pulse frequency will give a shorter pulse cycle. This allows for fine control of heat input into the base metal.

Pulse width. (0.1 to 0.9 or 10-90&#37 Only active in pulse mode. This TIG pulse control adjusts the relative amount of time the pulse spends in the peak (high) current stage during a pulse cycle. For example a control knob setting of 90% or .9 will give you 90% of the time in the peak (high) current stage and 10% in the base (low) current stage of the pulse cycle. Note: The Pulse width does not control the overall length of the pulse. The Pulse frequency sets the cycle length, thereby determining the overall length of each leg of the cycle.

Down-slope time. (0-10 seconds) The Down slope time controls the end cycle of the weld by slowly ramping down the welding current. As the end of the weld is reached and the torch trigger is released, the down slope helps prevent weld cracking and hole formation in the crater.

AC freq. (Alternating Current Frequency 20-100 cycles per second) Only active in AC mode. This AC TIG & Stick control adjusts the arc frequency. Setting high frequency narrows the welding arc making it more directional and increasing penetration. Lower frequency widens the arc and shallows the welding puddle.

AC balance. (30-70%) Only active in AC mode. This AC TIG & Stick control determines the amount of time the AC cycle spends in DCEN (Direct Current Electrode Negative -) or DCEP (DC Electrode Positive +). More DCEP is preferred for cleaning oxidation, particularly in aluminum. More DCEN is preferred for better penetration and faster travel speed. A 50% setting equalizes the time spent in both. A 30% setting is a good starting point. A higher AC balance setting will clean the weld more but put more heat into the electrode, reduce this setting if you melt the electrode. For higher AC balance settings use a thicker electrode to keep it from melting.

Post flow. (1-25 seconds) This timer controls the flow of shielding gas after the TIG weld arc is terminated. Too little post flow time can cause weld contamination or torch overheating. During plasma cutting Post Flow allows for cooling air to flow after terminating the arc. Keep the TIG torch in position over the weld until the post flow ends. Five seconds for plasma cutting and 5 to 10 seconds for TIG welding is a recommended starting point.

4T/2T Switch. This switch selects for control of the TIG weld cycle via the TIG torch trigger. In the 2T mode, simply touch and hold the trigger to start the arc and continue holding while welding. Release the trigger to finish. In the 4T mode each push of the trigger toggles between on and off (push and release trigger once to start, push and release once to stop welding).

Pressure Regulator. Pull the knob out to unlock, then turn left to decrease Argon/air flow, right to increase flow. Both pressurized air for plasma cutting and Argon gas for welding are affected by this knob. Set to approximately 65 psi air pressure for plasma cutting and push the knob in to lock it. Then adjust the Argon regulator on the gas bottle to control gas flow for TIG welding and you should be set for both plasma cutting and TIG welding.

Connectors

+ The ground clamp is normally connected to this terminal.

- The torch (TIG, Stick or Plasma Cutter) is normally connected to this terminal, but the + and - connectors can be reversed for DCEP (Direct Current Electrode Positive +) stick welding.

Torch Control. The torch control connector or the Foot Control connector attaches to this receptacle.

Pilot Arc. The plasma torch's pilot arc wire connects here.

Gas Outlet. The TIG and plasma torch's gas/air line connect to this receptacle.

Gas Inlet. (back of unit) Compressed air for the plasma torch and Argon gas for TIG welding are fed into the machine using this barbed hose receptacle.

[robrob]

LS-200PI Operation

TIG Welding
(Tungsten Inert Gas - Gas Tungsten Arc Welding - GTAW)

See my Basics of TIG Welding post

Connect the TIG torch to the - terminal, Torch Control and Gas Outlet receptacles. Connect the ground clamp to the + terminal and clamp the metal to be welded.

AC TIG (Aluminum & Magnesium) - Select TIG, AC, desired amps using the Base cur knob, AC freq, AC balance (start at around 30&#37, Post flow 5-10 seconds, Pulse Mode off.

AC TIG Pulse (Aluminum & Magnesium) - Select TIG, AC, Pulse Mode on, set Pulse cur knob to full left, then the desired low amperage using the Base cur knob, then adjust the high amperage using the Pulse cur knob, Pulse frequency, Pulse width, AC frequency, AC balance (start at around 30%), Post flow 5-10 seconds.

DC TIG - Select TIG, DC, Pulse Mode off, desired amps using Base cur knob, Post flow 5-10 seconds.

DC TIG Pulse - Select TIG, DC, Pulse Mode on, set Pulse cur knob to full left, then the desired low amperage using the Base cur knob, then adjust the high amperage using the Pulse cur knob, Post flow 5-10 seconds. Set pulse controls as desired: Pulse frequency, Pulse width.

TIG Operation and Principles

Shielding Gas. Use 100% Argon at 15-25 CFH (cubic feet per hour). Set the gas flow using the regulator on the gas bottle. Use higher flow when extending the tungsten electrode to reach into corners or gaps.

Tungsten Electrode. Ceriated tungsten (grey or orange) is recommended by Longevity. Use smaller diameter electrodes for thinner metal (low amperage), thicker electrodes for thicker metals that require more amperage. When using higher AC balance settings in AC mode, a thicker electrode will be required due to more heat moving into the electrode. If you melt an electrode step up to a thicker electrode.

Before any welding takes place, it is necessary to put on protective gear and familiarize yourself with safety precautions. TIG welding is an elite form of welding. Not many people learn to fully master the technique due to the patience and practice this art form requires. This manual cannot make you a good welder. Only practice and skill can do that.

The shielding gas flows out from the torch head to cool and protect the molten puddle and tungsten electrode as the arc continues to melt the base metal. As the metal melts and a circular puddle is formed, the Tig torch is slowly moved forward. While the metal gently flows together, the filler rod is kept near the arc and in the gas cone to keep it hot and keep it from oxidizing. As the metal begins to form a “keyhole” shaped puddle and penetration of the metal is achieved, the filler rod is gently added to the molten puddle and then removed as a molten drop of filler material is added to the base material.

As you familiarize yourself with the above digest of basic TIG welding, there are a couple of basic knowledge items that need to be addressed. The tungsten must be shaped prior to initiating an arc. With inverter based TIG welders, tungsten sharpness is important. Refer to the following diagram to correctly sharpen a Tungsten electrode. Notice the incorrect way of sharpening an electrode. Radially sharpening an electrode will cause an unstable, wandering arc, making it difficult to control the weld puddle. Carefully rotate the tungsten as it is being ground to prevent a flat spot or a hollow ground point. Also note that tapering the tungsten to 2.5 X’s of its diameter is generally recommended for most DC welding applications. For higher amperage DC welding, do not over sharpen the point, but leave a slight truncation on the end of the electrode. This prevents the tungsten tip from breaking away and falling into the weld. When AC welding, a small ball may form. This is normal. However, if a large globular ball begins to form, resharpen the tungsten and adjust the AC balance. It is also normal for a slight dome to form on the tungsten in DC mode. However, if the arc becomes erratic or the arc is difficult to start, regrinding will be necessary. If the tungsten is accidentally dipped into the weld puddle, regrind the tungsten, particularly on aluminum. Grind tungstens only on a dedicated stone, free of contamination from other metals. Hand held tungsten grinders usually grind perfect points. Once the tungsten has been sharpened, install it into the torch.

Filler Rod Selection. Depending upon the metal to be welded, filler rod selection is critical. Consult with your local welding supplier for the optimum filler rod to properly complete the weld. In certain applications, TIG welding can be performed without the use of a filler rod. Use a 5356 filler rod for most Aluminum.

Beginning the TIG weld. One of the biggest issues for beginning welders is holding and maintaining an arc. Starting an arc with your High Frequency welder is quite simple. Select the machine for TIG operation. Then, select the desired amperage. Grip the torch in a manner that is comfortable to you. (Many skilled welders use an underhanded grip to steady themselves on the metal.) Place the torch so that the tungsten is no more than 1/8 inch from the weld surface. Depending upon the setup, either press the foot pedal down or touch the torch and hold (2T setting) the trigger to initiate the high frequency arc. A small blue glowing cone may be observed. This is the high frequency arc. Immediately after that, you should see a strong, stable arc flowing from the torch. As the arc begins to grow, a molten puddle will appear. If it does not appear, stop welding and increase the amperage. Repeat the start sequence.

1. To help the molten puddle form, slowly make small circles with the torch to build the heat in the weld area. A bright, fluid puddle will begin to form.

2. Once a uniform puddle is established, tilt the torch head about 75 degrees from the weld surface into the direction of the weld. This will direct the arc to the front of the weld puddle.

3. Grip the filler rod at a 15 degree angle to the weld surface with the other hand. Hold the rod in the iridescent cone of gas that surrounds the weld puddle. Do not hold it in the arc. Keep it close to the weld. A “skeleton” keyhole will begin to form in front of the weld. The keyhole is evidence that you are ready to add filler material and move forward. Introduce the filler rod into the key hole area underneath the arc. Wait for a single molten drop to fall off the tip of the rod.

4. When a molten drop falls from the rod, quickly remove the rod, keeping it inside the gas cone. The molten drop of filler metal should blend quickly into the puddle.

5. Move the torch forward slightly, carrying the keyhole with the weld. If the key hole is lost, then forward travel was too fast or too far. When the keyhole shows good development, repeat the steps 3-5 until you have a proper weld bead established.

6. Weld termination. When the weld bead has reached the desired length, add a final drop of filler and slowly circle the torch over the end of the weld to fill the crater. If the weld crater is not correctly filled, cracking and weld failure may occur. This is a small but important step to properly completing a weld. Release the foot pedal or release the trigger to stop. Keep the TIG torch in place until the post flow ends--usually around 5 seconds.

7. When finished welding always let the welder's fan run for a minute or two to cool the machine before turning the power switch off.

[robrob]

LS-200PI Operation

Stick Welding
(Also known as MMA-Manual Metal Arc or Shielded Metal Arc Welding-SMAW)

Connect the Stick torch to the - terminal and Torch Control receptacles.

Connect the ground clamp to the + terminal and clamp the metal to be welded. Reverse the torch and ground connections for DCEP (Direct Current Electrode Positive).

DC Stick - Select Stick, DC, desired amps using Base cur knob, Pulse Mode off.

AC Stick - (Aluminum) Select Stick, AC, desired amps using Base current knob, Pulse Mode off, AC frequency, AC balance (start at approximately 30&#37

1. Insert electrode into electrode holder. Position the electrode for the most comfortable position so that the electrode can be held directly over the work piece with a slight angle.

2. Set Amperage to the recommended amperage by the electrode manufacturer. Strike an arc by swiping it briskly across the work piece in the same manner as one would strike a match. Alternatively, you may strike an arc with firm tapping motion against the work piece. Either method is acceptable. An arc should initiate. Continue to keep the arc going by holding the electrode off the work piece no more than the electrode width.

3. Continue the arc by feeding the electrode into the weld puddle while moving the electrode forward. This will take some coordination, but will be fairly easy to do after practice. Do not allow the arc to become too long, because air and slag can become entrapped in the metal. The sound of a proper arc will be similar to a gentle frying sound. A long arc will emit a humming sound. An arc that is too short may be extinguished and the electrode may stick to the work piece. If the electrode sticks, immediately release the electrode from the electrode holder and break the electrode loose by hand. If the flux breaks off, simply trim off the ex-cess rod until flux and bare metal meet. A welding rod must have flux to shield the weld from the atmosphere or the weld will fail.

4. Use the Basic Current control to change arc qualities. Adjust the amperage according to the recommendations of the electrode (welding rod) manufacturer for the type and size of the electrode used. When welding in the AC mode the AC Frequency control will affect how crisp the arc is, whether it is smooth and buttery or deeply penetrating. Use it to suit the desired weld finish. Experimentation will be required to find the optimal setting desired. It is an excellent tool for out of position welding.

5. Electrode selection. Electrodes are usually given performance and characteristic ratings using a system of letters and numbers determined by the American Welding Society (AWS). The rating system includes the minimum tensile strength of the finished weld, the weld position (flat, vertical, horizontal, or overhead or a combination of two or more positions) and the flux type. Additional information may be given. Each manufacturer has their individual name and terminology as well. As there is no general recommendation that can be made about a particular electrode selection, except for practice welds, a electrode designated by the AWS as E 6011, E 6013, E 7014, or E 7018 may be used, each having its own distinct features and purpose. These are among the most common electrodes used in the industry and are not difficult to find. E 6011 electrodes are not as smooth running as some of the other electrodes, but offer the advantage of being able to weld on rusty metal and contaminated surfaces. It is widely used and requires very little skill to begin using. This is not a particular endorsement of an E6011, rather a simple example of what may be used in developing proficient technique. It is recommended that a variety of electrodes be used and practiced with. Consultation with an experienced local welding supplier will help greatly in determining what welding electrode is the best for your given situation. Many times, samples or small packages of electrodes are available at relatively low cost to determine for yourself the best electrode to use.

Stick Electrode Chart Example: E 60 1 3

Strength
60--60,000 psi,
70--70,000 psi
Weld Position
1--All positions: Flat, Vertical, Horizontal, & Overhead
2--Flat Position or Horizontal Fillets Only
3--Flat Position Only
Weld Characteristics
0--Non-low hydrogen, DC Reverse polarity
1--Non-low hydrogen, AC or DC Reverse polarity
2--Non-low hydrogen, AC or DC Straight polarity
3--Non-low hydrogen, AC or DC Either polarity
4--Non-low hydrogen, iron powder coating, AC or DC Reverse polarity
5--Low-hydrogen, DC Reverse polarity
6--Low-hydrogen, AC or DC Reverse polarity
7--Non-low hydrogen, iron powder coating, AC or DC Reverse polarity
8--Low hydrogen, iron powder coating, AC or DC Reverse polarity
Polarity Definition
electrode negative =straight polarity (typical stock machine setup)
electrode positive =reverse polairty

Be sure to observe the electrode manufacturer recommendations regarding polarity. If the weld appears lumpy, porous or otherwise malformed, change the polarity of the ground cable and the electrode holder cable. Many electrodes run with in reverse polarity, (DCEP) setting. A few run with a straight polarity (DCEN). Some will run either way. For reverse polarity (DCEP) stick welding, swap the electrode holder and ground cable connections.

Proper weld identification. Overlap and undercutting are two main causes of weld failure. Proper washing of the weld bead into the sides or “toes” of the weld is important. Keep the welding electrode or the TIG tungsten and welding arc within the weld joint to prevent overlap. Pausing on the sides of the welds to wait for the sides to fill reduces the chance of undercutting, even if the current is a little too high. If it is possible, with any practice weld, cut the joint down the middle, lengthwise, or place the weldment in a vice and use a hammer to bend the metal over the weld area until it is either broken or bent 90 degrees. This destructive testing method will help you improve your skill by revealing faults and flaws in your welds.

[robrob]

LS-200PI Operation

Plasma Cutting

Connect the plasma torch to the - terminal, Pilot Arc and Gas Outlet receptacles. Connect the ground clamp to the + terminal and clamp the metal to be cut.

Select Cut, DC, 2T, desired amps using Base current knob, Post flow to 5 seconds. Set 65 psi air pressure at the front panel regulator.

Plasma Principles

Before any welding or cutting takes place, it is necessary to put on protective gear and familiarize yourself with safety precautions. Plasma Cutting is an efficient and simple way to cut multiple metal types. The super sonic plasma stream, generated by ionized pressurized air, is capable of rapidly burning metal without overheating the surrounding area. This is helpful for preventing warpage and preventing the formation of Heat Affected Zones (HAZ) in the metal.

Simple and easy steps to cutting correctly

1. Set Amperage and Air pressure to suit the units specifications. Place the torch cutting tip up to 1/8 inch from the work piece to prevent extra wear and blow back of material.

2. Press trigger to begin cutting. Hold torch trigger down to continue cutting in 2T mode. To cut in 4T (Automatic) mode, press trigger to allow arc to start and release trigger to continue cutting. Press the trigger again to stop cutting.

3. Once Plasma stream is established and sparks exit the bottom of the piece of metal being cut, slowly move the torch forward into the cut. Depending upon torch orientation, you may pull, push or move side-to-side to make the cut. Grip the torch only tight enough to keep the trigger pressed. A tight grip will result in uneven cutting. Glide the hand gently across the metal, maintaining a drag style cut or a standoff. Use standoff wheels or ring if necessary on long cuts. If the torch tip sticks or fouls excessively, revert to standoff cutting.

4. Continue cutting following the desired path of cut. Make sure that the sparks are exiting the piece of metal at a 10-15 degree angle. If the sparks are exiting straight down, then the cutting speed is too slow. Increase cutting speed until a change of the spark angle is observed. If excessive slag is building up on the bottom of the metal (more than 1/8 inch) then either increase amperage, travel speed or air pressure. Sometimes excessive slag build up on the bottom of the cut occurs because the machine has reached its severance limit. Occasionally excessive slag can be caused by rusty or contaminated metal. Note that cutting thicknesses posted in the specification page are specifically for mild carbon steel under ideal circumstances. Stainless, Aluminum and other metals have reduced cut ratings. Cutting capacity of these metals are generally 10-20% less than mild steel.

5. Exit the cut by pausing briefly to allow the spark stream to catch up and to be directed straight down. This is usually the most challenging part of the cut because the bottom of the cut needs to be even with the top before exiting or the cut piece will remain stuck to the parent piece of metal. Carefully work the plasma stream to the very edge of the cut.

6. Release the trigger to break the arc in the Standard mode setting. In the Automatic mode setting, repress the trigger and release to discontinue the arc.

Caution! Breaking the arc in the auto mode by lifting the arc away will not satisfactorily terminate the arc and may restart the pilot arc. Precautions must be taken in this mode or serious injury can occur.

7. Allow post/after flow cooling to occur. Post flow will continue for up to a half a minute after the cut is completed. If additional cooling is required because of heavy cutting or extended cutting, switch the post flow switch to “Test” to start manual cooling of the torch. After the torch is sufficiently cooled, return the switch to cutting mode to discontinue the post/after flow cooling cycle.

Helpful Hints for cutting.

1. Make several practice cuts first. Adjust the amperage and air pressure throughout the range to see the effects it has on the cut. Each machine will have a slightly different range or “sweet spot”.

2. Use a substantial flat piece of metal to make a long, clean cut. Attempting to cut odd objects or make short cuts cannot really train proper technique. It will also be difficult to ascertain the quality of the cut. Practice Cuts Using Different Settings.

3. Keep torch straight in cut. Do not lean or tilt the torch. The ergonomic design of the plasma torch eases this problem. However, fatigue is a common cause for poor, uneven cuts.

4. Keep consumables checked for wear. Tip wear can decrease cutting capacity and cut quality at an imperceptible rate until cutting ability is significantly affected.

Gouging

The Plasma function is able to perform light to medium gouging, depending upon the type of metal with the standard cutting tip and electrode. To gouge, simply lower the air pressure a little using the front panel Pressure Regulator. Lean the torch at a 30-35 degree angle to the work piece and begin to gouge. If you experience problems, experiment with the air pressure to accomplish the desired type of gouge. For certain applications, a special gouging tip may be required.

Piercing

Occasionally, the need will arise to pierce directly down into a piece of metal to initiate a cut with out the benefit of starting on the edge of the material. This is known as piercing. To pierce, simply start the torch with a 1/8 inch stand-off at the desired spot. If possible, lean the torch at a slight angle so that blowback does not become a problem and will not foul the tip. Make sure that you tilt the torch away from the piece being cut out to prevent marring. Allow the torch to slowly burn its way through the metal. As the torch plasma stream burns down through the plate, straighten the torch into the cutting position. As sparks begin to exit the bottom, you may shorten the standoff and begin your cut. Excessive use of piercing will significantly reduce consumable life, particularly with an inexperienced operator. Do not attempt to pierce an object that is thicker than 50-60% of the rated cut capacity to ensure long torch life.

Note: Piercing can produce a lot of blowback of molten metal. Protective gear is absolutely required, especially face shields and fire proof clothing.

[Gadget]

Wow, thanks Rob. This could be a nearly complete manual for this unit.

[KHK]

Very, Very, Very Nice, robrob!!! I did not read the entire doc. yet, but I will. Thanks for sharing.

[JJW]

Rob,
Great over view!
Pictures sure are nice too!
Enjoy your new welder.
Regards,
John

[robrob]

I tried out the plasma cutter this morning and played around with all the machine's settings so I have revised the instructions a little and added more to the review of how well it worked. I love this welder!