Water cooled Torch questions

[ceej]

There are two hoses for the water cooled torch. One goes into the bundle, the other goes to the Machine connection end. The one going straight into the hose bundle has a "W" on it. Is this the feed side for the water, or the return?

CJ

[Fastest1]

I would think the hose on the Dinse connector would be the pressure side and the hose marked W would be the return. It would make sense the water would cool the cable on the way to the torch, then help cool the torch and dump rather than vice versa and carry the heat from the torch head to the cable but either way as long as a flow is present it should be better than no coolant.

[ceej]

Does the cooling system allow flow when there is no power to the torch? We tested our pump system a couple minutes ago. Water flows to the torch, but we don't get anything back on the return.

CJ

Ooopps. Found it. Our pump can't push very much head pressure. We'll find something a bit more substantial!

[tigqk]

Yes, you should get a return either way, their should be a fusable block, if you don't have one, buy one, they are not that expensive probably less than fifty bucks, they go on the coolant return line from your torch at the welder and when the water system fails because of plugged, dirty water or forget to turn cooler on(what???lol) or something like that the fuse breaks, it is a thin flat peice of bimetal, good system saver.But doesn't affect your coolant flow just stops your current to machine.
Some mfg's have a solid state plug in to the peripheral port for migs that have a fuse block that is solid state.Here is a link that may be of help,
carmenelectrode.com/category/water-cooled-tig-torch/
weldingdirect.com/hookadfortig.html

[ceej]

Thanks for the info!

From what I'm finding, the cooling system needs to have about 40# of pressure to keep the coolant from cavitating under some conditions. I have three pumps to play with, but the higher pressure ones flow a lot of water.
Since I don't plan to run the machine very hard, can I run in the 20# range, or should I use the larger pumps and a bypass?
Some of the information out there suggests RV anti-freeze to halt growth. Are there other coolants I should use or considerations I haven't touched on?

CJ

[KHK]

Use caution when choosing the anti-freeze. Some automotive anti-freezes have stop leak built into them this will eventually plug the torch. Check with you local WS for the proper juice to use in them.

[rustycase]

I'm watching from the shadows, ceej!
Definitely can't afford a storebought cooler, and I just don't like the feel of the single hose air-cooled torches.
Even my 2 hose W-26 feels btr than the WC/WT 17 of my kid's.
...I'm probably going to end up with a w-20 series...
rc

[ceej]

I've got a pump that works now. I'm going to use a five gallon bucket with the lid on it with an appropriate juice in it. The amount of welding I do, this will work fine.
I'll get some of the appropriate antifreeze when I'm in town tomorrow. I'll need to pick up some aluminum filler rod anyway. Gotta test the AC functions!

CJ

[rustycase]

ceej, first thing that comes to mind is that a 5gal bucketful is just not enough... but keep us posted!
Good luck
rc

[tigqk]

I have a good brass pump I am going to hook to a 1/4hp motor(old appliance motor) with a set of spiders, wasn't used much can't remember where I picked it up pump, and a freon storage tank for water storage and the cooler will either be an old auto cooler or the back condenser from a refrigatator.Will post more as I get it together.I like to make things so they look good finished not like they were made half hazardly, but cannot se getting that much pressure with such a small motor.let us know how it works for you.