Quick disconnects for air and gas use?

[tigqk]

The back is simply a quick connect from the bottle to the machine, so changeover is a two second affair, if you really want a high quality connection then go with mini-connection for oxy-acetylene.Also you want to be careful your machine is still under warrantee.With the exception of clamps everything is stock inside.

[tjjolle]

I agree Stan, that would be an addition to these units that would be a simpler interface for the user. I'm sure the consumer may see a cost associated with that, but it would be offset by us not having to buy a handful of connectors and making our own system.

[KHK]

The Quick disconnects that I used are HANSEN and have I have used then for about 1 year with no problems.
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[tigqk]

Hey keith how did you get your connector to fit so good to your firewall/panel, what is the thread/mfg?Thats why I went with a bulkhead fitting so that the coonector was heldfast to the welder, I was looking for a connector like yours, was going to get one from Simon from one of his new machines(for those that don't know the new machines have DIN quick conectors now), and just said I'll get what I can locally, the cost was about $30.00 because I had ordered everything and because I went through customer service paid full retail.

[tigqk]

The pic does not tell everything, did you have a screw on barb, then slid the hose on.I pretty much went through everything in the catologs and it was pretty difficult to find a qu connector that could be sandwiched in their without some innovation,looks like you added the washer....

[KHK]

The washer that is behind the quick disconnect is a standard 5/8 washer. It is just thick enough for the barbed fitting to secure it to the bulkhead. One of the pictures shows the quick disconnect with Teflon tape on the threads, this was the first attempt, I actualy used pipe dope on the final installation. I will look around on the internet for a part number for the quick disconnect.

[KHK]

This is what I found on the INTERNET;
Hansen is owned by Tuthill, they still use the Hansen name.
The part number is 180 for the outlet and 185 for the plug.
I found that Flow Products will order the connectors. Flow products is a national company, so there should be one in your area.



I did make some changes to both parts before instillation, the outlet has a bicycle check valve installed in it, I removed it. The plug has a extended piece made to hit the bicycle valve, I ground it off.

[jbman45]

Well I finally got tired of changing hoses with the hose barb and checked out some options and put on a quick disconnect on the front of my 200PI that works great. I was looking for a simple disconnect, doesn't have to be a sealing connect, can be just a normal open disconnect much like those used on air compressors but smaller.

I found very nice 1/8 inch connectors that look like compressor fittings, just smaller at Hufco(formerly Parker I think), major custom hydraulic hose manufacturers and in most cities.. they were only 4 bucks apiece and got the female for the welder; 3 males for different connections on hose torches I use. part numbers were:
BST-N1 for the male ends at 2 bucks; BST-1M for the welder female at 4 bucks.

You'll have to figure out how you want the female connector to work for you; I bought one with a female pipe thread to connect thru the case to a 1/8 in pipe barb fitting for the internal hose. hardest thing is to get real small hose clamps for the connections.

[WookieWelding]

i see a huge issue with shielding gas contamination by using the same lines and solenoid for both compressed air and shielding gas ... IE oil water any other stuff the compressor pumps into the lines ..then running your shielding gas thru those lines and solenoid causing weld contamination ... Maybe longevity will change there design cost cant be that much for another solenoid and lines and fittings

[tigqk]

What is your machine model?What does your system have for water removal?Are your prepping your metal proper?Aluminun or steel problems?

I don't know what to say other than perhaps do some house cleaning, oil changing to your compressor pump sump with new mineral oil and perhaps take a power washer and clean the tank. As another step you can buy these balls about 2.5 inches in diameter with flattened ends of plastic threaded on both sides with treated paper on the inside,to catch particles that have been missed in your cleaning system. I have some in my tool box I'll will get you a picture.And you place them before the machine intake for easy replacement.For any replacement of lines rubber is not recomended.This is why the mfg use polyvinyl and rubber is not recomenned for tig because of this.

Also I have pretty good knowledge of the Longevity 3in1 system what you could do is this if you cannot resolve your tig welding issue, easy fix, get a double pole double throw switch(6 poles) for the front panel, another solenoid, 12 volt(must be high flow) and their is plenty of room inside the shell to mount another solenoid and plumb it to the back and front, and out the rear of machine for connection to your compressor line. The switch you can connect by in putting your solenoid leads in to set for one solenoid when using plasma cutter the other for tig.
Good Luck