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Thread: Quick disconnects for air and gas use?

  1. #1
    Mike94531 is offline Junior Member
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    Quick disconnects for air and gas use?

    Thought there would be a seperate IN line for the air and for the shielding gases, guess not

    So, in order to make things go a little smoother, I was thinking quick disconnect hose fittings?

    Currently I have only used the plasma cutter so I have a male fitting on the regulator as supplied with the welder/plasma cutter. This is the usual type found in the garage or automotive use for air tools. Okay for air since small leaks not that big of a deal.

    However, once I start TIG welding, I don't want to waste too much Argon or Argon/CO2 mix (have both) and I'd like to be able to quickly switch around takes or compressed air without having to use tools.

    Any recommendations for nice leak free quick disconnect fittings that won't break the bank??

    Mike

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    vault is offline Senior Member
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    I have my argon tank connected to a 2 way ball valve then to a Tee one end of the Tee goes to the regulator the other side is connected to a nother 2way ball valve and then a air quick disconnect. this way I can easily switch between air or argon. A better way is a three way valve but they were more expensive route.

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    KHK's Avatar
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    Mike, Click on KHK and you will see my User CP, on the right hand side there is an album that shows the connecting of a three way valve. This is the hook up that I am using on my machine. On the argon side the hose is connected directly to the valve(NO ARGON LEAKS) On the air side can be connected to a quick disconnect. I think that the loss of argon will pay for the three way valve in a few months. The valve cost about $15-$20

    keith
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    Any of the suggestions are great, especially those using valves which makes for a nice easy switch. I haven't got that sophisticated yet! and only use typical air quick connects and overall don't have any leakage i can tell. BUT, one thing to watch is to not run both argon and air through the regulator that is supplied; run your argon straight into the machine. The flow rate of argon is low enough that a second regulator in line will not trigger the auto dump valve and you'll get leaks (if that's the type of regulator/water separator supplied with my unit). So, air through the regulator/water separator; and argon straight from the tank regulator into the machine.
    jbman45
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbman45 View Post
    . BUT, one thing to watch is to not run both argon and air through the regulator that is supplied; run your argon straight into the machine. The flow rate of argon is low enough that a second regulator in line will not trigger the auto dump valve and you'll get leaks (if that's the type of regulator/water separator supplied with my unit). So, air through the regulator/water separator; and argon straight from the tank regulator into the machine.
    Now that I think of it I have the quick disconnect going into the reg for air a 2 way ball valve after the regulator going into the Tee then one side of the Tee going into the machine and the other connected to the argon tank thru a second 2 way ball valve. (I'm at work and was trying to go from memory). I would have liked to use the three way but could not find one at ace, lowes, HD, or plumbing supply so I did it up this way.

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    VAult, I think youre set up is perfect. If you had a valve before the regulator it may not work, mine won't if I run argon thru the regulator so you're set up sounds great...a quick connect for air is good; and full argon via the two way for your argon use.
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    One thing you can always do is run a short hose to valve and run a quick connect y splitter or ball valve. I believe KHK on here showed the perfect setup in a similar thread.


    View this thread:

    Selector valve for Argon / Air

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    HerbD is offline Senior Member
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    3 - way Valve

    I had read about using a 3-way valve to have both argon and compressed air available for units like the LS200P that combine a plasma cutter and TIG welder in one machine. After tightening and loosening hose clamps a number of times I decided to tackle the project.

    Finding a 3-way valve was not easy. There are several variations on them so look for an "L" type, not a mixing type valve. The "L" type shuts one off when the other is open rather than proportioning the mixture. After a couple of fruitless bids on eBay it turns out that it was less expensive to just order a valve from Enco. The 3-way valve was $19.23 and is part number 891-6330. It was at my house in three days.

    Basically, make sure that the machine is unplugged, then open the case. The solenoid valve that controls the gas is right behind the barbed fitting that the hoses connect to. Don't try to take off the swaged hoses from inside the machine, however, the lock nut can be removed from the outside of the barbed fitting and with some care the solenoid can be maneuvered out of the case while still attached to the inside hose.

    The barbed fitting can be taken to the local hardware store for size comparison. A short nipple can then be screwed into the solenoid and replaced in its original position. Check the wires to be sure they don't touch anything. A nylon cable tie worked to bring the wires to one of the fiber posts that hold the boards in position.

    I used paste pipe joint compound on all threaded fittings rather than teflon tape. A 90 degree elbow was threaded onto the nipple so that when tightened it pointed at a 45 degree angle toward the center of the back panel of the machine (between the fans). Using an adapter copper tubing was then attached to the elbow. A tubing bender was used to bring the tubing up along the back of the machine and to the 3-way valve. The valve was positioned to be just slightly above the cover of the machine but not so high as to be above the handle level so it could be seen from the front of the machine.

    Adapters were used to go from copper back to brass. The handle of the valve gives an indication as to which side, air or argon, is open. A bracket was fashioned from 1/8" x 1/2" mild steel to hold the valve which comes with cast in ears for screws.

    The pictures show how it all fit together. I kept the flex hose so that different argon bottles could be accommodated. You can also see how the red cart was cut to hold the bottle. The black line around the bottle is auto trim from a local shop and keeps the bottle from rattling when the cart is rolled around the shop.

    On the compressed air side I added a multi-port block so that an air hose and blower could be used for cleanup. The top port accepts the quick disconnect from the copressor feed line, the lower quick disconnect accepts the coiled air hose.

    HerbD [IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/USERON%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/USERON%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpg[/IMG]
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  9. #9
    KHK's Avatar
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    HerbD, what you hav done looks realy good, and functional. I choose the easy way out and used the barbed fitting, on the back of the welder, with a crimp type ring fitting.

    good job HerbD!!

    keith
    keith
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    This is what I did. Compressor air for plasma comes in from the left. Argon from the right. Line to the unit from the center between the valves.

    Metal is for men and wood is for wussies!!!!

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