Low Bucks Pantograph carriage

[ISKI]

This is what I use for a plasma cutter. I can tilt the tip angle, and trace objects. It keeps the the torch angle and distance from work constant in X, Y, and Z. I currently have the table it mounts to disassembled and hope to upgrade it to CNC when time permits.

[Gadget]

Looks like you gave it some thought, nice outfit.

[matteh99]

Looks like you have a good start for a CNC table but some time retro fitting can be a real head ache.

Eric

[ISKI]

The only issue that I had was regulating the travel speed. I would put a finger on one of the skatebord bearings to add some drag to the system. I always wanted to put some sort of mechanical regulator to resist changes in speed. With the force cut 80, I can up the current and travel speed is not as much of an issue.

For the retrofit, I agree. I'm trying to make minimum changes to the table and use steel that I have laying around, so its more like several jig saw puzzels mixed together. I have spent most of my time day dreaming about what if's.

[arandall]

Nice rig Isky. - Show us the table when you can.

[samsberr]

Nice work...
I want to see the whole setup when complete...
Ive been thinking about the same thing...

[Arcamm]

Is that going to be part of a CNC machine or do you move it by hand?

[ISKI]

This gets moved by hand. I would draw a shape in a 2D drawing package. Then have the 2D tool automatically add an offset outline 3/16th of an inch in. This could be done by hand using only a number 2 pencil etc. Next if computer generated, I print out the outline and use some quick dry rubber cement to stick the printout to a piece of 1/4 inch wafer board. I would cut out the pattern on a jig saw, then clamp it to a plate of steel. The Plasma cutter hose is hung from a string to the ceiling of the garage to keep the X-Y action smooth. Finally I would trace the outline of the fiber board pattern by running the edge of the tip along the pattern. I liked it since I could print the part description on the paper and then save the template for the next identical item I needed. It also appeals to me, because I don't need any high tech expensive stuff. This thing should never need more than a a squirt of oil.

When I finish up the LandRover, and clean off the welding table I'll see about putting the side rails back. I was using two U-channels for the X direction, but am thinking about changing the arrangement.
The only automated trial I have done to date was to weld a 3/4 nut to the bottom and use a variable speed electric drill to move the X-axis. The 3/4 inch threaded bar did not have an acme thread, and I was not impressed with the movement. Next I purchased a 1/2 hp variable speed electric drive to replace the drill for straight cuts, but then noticed Gadgets very elegant solutions for CNC, and decided to put the variable speed electric drive in a box where it will soon be forever forgotten.

[Arcamm]

An analog cnc! How's the finsh on the work piece? Great idea, especialy if you have to make multiple parts that are the same. Sounds kind of like you looking at going digital?

[ISKI]

Arcamn, it works in manual mode, but yes, I'm going to spend some time to try to get it all digital. The hard part is the software, which seems to be available on Linux for free. My dream would be X, Y, Z and rotation in two axis. I have purchased enough mechanical stuff for everything to get three axis and two rotations. I don't think that the software to rotate the head will be included in the free Linux G-code drivers. This would most likely have to be setup by hand inserting code into the string of commands.