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I have been watching welding videos and teaching myself how to TIG weld the last couple of weeks and wanted to try to pass along some of the basics I've learned. I'm using a new Longevity LS-200PI Multi Process welder/cutter (freakin' love it!). Here's a link to the review I did of my welder/cutter. If you've been thinking about buying a TIG welder but don't know how to weld--like me--don't worry, you can teach yourself how with practice. TIG welding is cool--it'll impress your friends and coworkers!
If any of you experienced TIG welders notice an error please feel free to add a correction or welding tip.
Consider getting some instruction. Your local welding shop might be willing to tutor you for a few dollars per hour--it doesn't hurt to ask. Some community colleges offer adult continuing education classes in welding but most don't teach TIG, so ask before you sign up.
Practice Get some scrap metal and practice! It's really fun and it's important for TIG welding.
Assemble the TIG Torch Start by sharpening an electrode. I like to usge the side of a grinding wheel. The side of the grinding wheel is probably clean so it won't contaminate the electrode. Grind along the length of the electrode and make the tip look like a sharpened pencil. I matched up the electrode to the correct size collet (three sizes are supplied), pushed the sharp end of the electrode into the collet, then slid the collet into the torch. I screwed on the # 5 gas lens and pushed the electrode out so it extended about 3/16 of an inch beyond the gas lens. I then screwed the electrode cap over the electrode and gently tightened it down finger tight to secure the electrode.
Machine Settings Start with the easy stuff--turn the Pulse Mode off! It's an advanced technique and not necessary.
For basic 1/8 inch mild steel welding practice I set my LS-200PI like this:
TIG
2T
DC
Pulse off
AC Freq & balance N/A (settings don't matter)
Pulse cur, freq, width N/A
Base cur 110 amps (or use the Foot control set at 8 )
Down slope 1 second
Post flow 7 seconds
Argon gas flow at 18 CFM
Filler Rod Not rocket science. Just go with what your welding supply store suggests.
Prep the Metal Clean the metal prior to welding using a wire brush, wire wheel, or acetone. If it's greasy clean it--Windex works great for cleaning metal for welding--even Aluminum.
Use an auto-darkening helmet. It's nice to be able to see before and during the weld so you can control the torch electrode to metal gap. For $80 you can get a pretty good one. Having a second one around for observers is a good idea--it's easier to impress your friends if they can actually watch the magic!
Use thin and supple TIG welding gloves. It's hard to control the torch and filler rod using thick MIG/Stick style gloves.
Clothing Wear a long sleeve shirt (cotton is better than synthetic), long pants and closed toe shoes.
Electrode Size My welder came with 3 electrode collet sizes. Use a thin electrode for low amp welding, the middle size for normal welding, and the thick electrode for high amp steel. The thick electrode is a good bet when welding Aluminum or Magnesium too because of the extra heat put into the electrode when using AC. Usually the thicker the metal you're welding, the higher amperage you'll have to use, the thicker the electrode you should use too.
Clamp the ground clamp to the metal to be welded. Wiggle the clamp a little to get a good electrical connection.
Hold the TIG torch like a pen, with your index finger on the trigger.
If possible, put your elbows or forearms against something to help keep them steady. Even putting your elbows against your side will help.
Purge the Gas Line Before starting the weld quickly push and release the torch trigger to flow some Argon gas through the gas line and torch.
Start with running a bead without a filler rod. Hold the torch almost straight up, with a slight angle toward the direction of travel. Push the trigger (or foot pedal) and form a molten weld pool, then slowly move the torch. Play around with the distance between the electrode and metal. Too far and the arc will be too wide, too close and it's too narrow and you'll touch the metal and contaminate the electrode (pull it out and grind it--no big deal).
Don't freak out when you contaminate the torch electrode by touching it to the metal. Just turn the machine off, leave your welding gloves on and unscrew the torch electrode cap, pull the electrode and collet out (no need to pull the electrode out of the collet), and grind a new sharp tip. You'll learn to do this in about 2 minutes flat
Post Flow Remember to keep the torch in the welding position over the end of your weld until the gas flow ends--about 8 seconds. This will keep the end of the weld from becoming contaminated by oxidation as it cools.
Experiment with amp setting, travel speed and electrode height and see how it affects the weld bead.
Next practice with a filler rod. Get the weld pool going and stick the rod in and out so a little of it melts into the pool, move the torch and repeat. Remember to keep the tip of the filler rod in the Argon gas flow to keep it from becoming contaminated with oxidation. Don't touch the electrode with the filler rod (you will--just pull the electrode out and grind it--no big deal).
When you get pretty good with the filler rod it's time to start joining pieces of scrap metal.
Inspect the Welds If you can, cut your practice welds open to inspect them. If they're good you won't be able to tell where the weld starts and the base metal begins.
Practice, practice, practice--have fun--I am!
Rob Robinette
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Originally Posted by rhett
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