Argon Regulator

[Hamstn]

When setting the flow rate what is the proper way to read the position of the ball? Is it the top, bottom, or the middle? I have it set now with the middle of the ball on 7LPM. I do have a problem of fouling the tip but the welds look ok both on AL and mild steel. If I hit the tip with filler or dip it into the pool I understand the problem but if I don't after running several beads it is slightly blunt on steel and has a blueish looking ball a little smaller then a BB when welding AL on AC.

Not sure if normal or I am getting contamination but the arc from the tip of Tungsten is like an upside down funnel. I have to look through the arc to see the puddle making things a bit hard to see.

Will finish up my cart today, an order of Tungsten and filler rod should be here today, and I should be back to do some more practice. I find it funny that finding a selection of filler rod local has turned out to be difficult. The big LWS was out of what I needed and the place I buy metal no longer carries it. Cheaper to order anyway at least on Tungsten...by about 50% shipping included same brand.

[Uncle Ed]

I am curios about this, too.

I still haven't tried welding since I found that I was running too much argon (due to brain fart and metric system) but I would try about 9 LPM on aluminum. A good stretch on steel blunts my tip also.

Then again I use a small tungsten for most work, anyway, so I am probably overheating it.

[Hamstn]

I was using 3/32 ceriated tungsten. On DC it was using 80 amps which is lower then recommended and on AC I was I think around 150 amps wich is slightly above recommended. AC balance also affected the results on the tip but I was using all those darn buttons and combination of each to see and test the results. I have some 1/16 tungsten arriving today to play with.

Doing some more reading it may appear that I need to extend the tip out just a bit more. I was adjusting so the end of the taper was even with the end of the cup.

One more question while I am at it. I have three sizes of collets and three cups. I assume cup size matches the size of collet/tungsten. Anyway the largest collet is for 3/32 so I used the largest cup (have to go look to see what number it is).

[Gadget]

Probably is #7 cup

[Uncle Ed]

Physically the gun doesn't care about cup size. I use a small cup regardless when doing inside corners.

I set my stickout around 3/16 to 1/4.

[Hamstn]

Turns out I was using a #6 cup. I also put a longer taper on the end of the tungsten and things went better. Used up several trying to get set up welding a 1/8" AL piece to a 1/4". I was well beyond the amperage of a 3/32 tungsten put got it done though not pretty. Also helped when I bumped the AR to 10lpm. Built a tip holder, like Gadget built, but I want to add something to it to hold the stick stinger.

[matteh99]

Make sure the back of your torch isn't leaking. My collets were a bit weird so the back of the torch wouldn't screw in far enough. Since that happened the o-ring that is meant to seal the back of the torch didn't do any thing. That meant that a good portion of my argon was going out the back of the torch and not out past the tungsten like it is supposed to.

[Gadget]

Loosen the collet on the front then you can tighten the back of the torch enough to get the O-ring to seal. I also found a trick to tightening the collet well by using the back of the torch to tighten it rather than trying to tighten the collet. Makes removing and replacing the electrode much easier.

[Uncle Ed]

After futzing around with different holder ideas I settled on a hanger instead.

I had a bunch of long pegboard straight rods and I bent a couple into U shaped hooks to cradle the front and back of the torch on either side of the handle shaft and mounted that to the side of the Frankenwelder cart. Could do somthing similar with magnets to use on a table.

Coated pegboard peg rods are a nice size but I imagine a thick coat hanger or a drop ceiling hanger rod would work.

Since I am a klutz, the hanger style is more secure for me as even when I knock or trip over the lines the torch stays secure.

I used a similar idea with the plasma but the head goes into a padded ring and the handle rests in another u-bend and the holder is at an angle so the plasma tip points down 45 degrees on the cart. A straight down model for the table is planned for when I finally make a table.

[Hamstn]

Today I got the holder done and is working as it should. I used the magnet off an old 15" woofer. It's a bit big and strong so when you trip on the leads you will fall instead of the torch.

I also did some experiments with sharpening tungstens for welding AL. I was sharpening them at about 3 diameter widths and it would ball up and erode within seconds of striking an arc. So I ground one less then two diameters and then ground off the tip so it was about 1/4 of the diameter and it worked like a charm. I ran five 4" long beads at 140amps and maintained a nice arc until I touched it with the filler at the end of the 5th bead. Was going to add a pic but I grabbed the piece with a shop rag to bring in house a cool further and the rag left the beads all blackish.

BTW I hate the big stacked dimes look that every one expects of a good welder, and yes I can make them big or small and tight