WeldAll 160 pi and tigging?

[Fastest1]

KHK, Theoretically I understand about just being able to push the pedal down and go. I would have thought you could set a ceiling that was verifiable prior to welding, otherwise what good is an amperage setting or a welding calculator? I would have also thought that once I plugged the pedal in, the knobs on the pedal would work the whole time. If I turn up the pot it increases the potential amperage but that is not how the pedal works. It only uses the setting you have when the pedal is plugged in and the machine is energized. I guess it is kind of like setting the throttle in my car prior to getting in but only being able to accurately get within 15-25 mph of intended speed and then pressing go. The reference to the "button" was that if the setting only changes if the pedal is unplugged, reset and then plugged back in, why not have a simple switch breaking that connection. Personally I would think just a pedal that varies the amperage up to the setting I have on the front panel would be fine. I see the amperage just fine if the torch is on 2T or 4T. I am sure with experience this will be a non issue. In fact at the moment the pedal was a hinderance and the micro heat adjustment is not necessary. If it bothers me that much I will figure out a way to jumper the amperage pot. Next is to install a non push fitting into the gas solenoid in the machine, this is apparently the source of much of my Argons leaking. I finally get the push tubes on the outside of the machine to stop leaking but I can see the ball floating a little at all times. American or metric threads?

[KHK]

You should NOT have to unplug anything to adjust the amperage. Something is not right! Are you turning down the amp dial on the welder to ZERO when using the foot switch? I will try setting my foot pedal to max and weld then turning it down and see what happens. I have a 200pi now I would hope that are the same. Maybe I have powered down the machine or something else is blurring my memory on a 160pi The threads are the same as a 1/8 npt thread, but they are NOT tapered. Use a good sealant, I had no luck with Teflon.

[Fastest1]

Keith, I think you now understand the issue, yes my dial on the pedal has no effect after initial power up with the pedal plugged in (whatever the setting during that power up is what you get for overall amperage but the pedal does vary this) and since the pedal is responsible for the amperage the displayed information on the digital readout is wrong. I thought this was very odd. Upon talking to Simon pretty extensively this was how the pedal works, he confirmed it probably wasnt the best system and predicted the dial will be removed from the pedal in future models. I think there is probably a way to jumper the 2 pins on the plug of the machine and bypass the pedals dial. I wont be doing this right away and will confirm it would work thru Longevity and its schematics, or just buy a new pedal when they are updated (if they are backwards compatible). This odd operation of setting the pedal and then plugging it in is what prompted me to suggest a toggle switch, my thought was that you could break the connection via a switch instead of physically unplugging and replugging. Just a statement about the knob if it were to be retained, it should be on the side and not at the end. That way you could actually change the setting with your foot instead of having to reach down with your hand. I think the removal would be best.