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Thread: post flow

  1. #11
    rustycase's Avatar
    rustycase is offline Senior Member
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    YES !

    Contact DP before doing anything!
    My brand XX 200P machine had a simple malfunction and it required replacement of the control board.
    It was not difficult, but was definitely a detailed operation.
    I used a torch w/valve until I got the solenoid control fixed.
    rc
    Longevity Stickweld 140 Lunchbox Baby!
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    the paint pumps, ladders and stuff
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    & I am a pathological liar and functional illiterate.

  2. #12
    LONGEVITY-Support's Avatar
    LONGEVITY-Support is offline LONGEVITY Customer Service
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    Does the air turn on as soon as the machine is powered on or does it run when you hit the trigger on the torch?

    Best,

    DP
    Sincerely,

    LONGEVITY Customer Service
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  3. #13
    sparkplug is offline Junior Member
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    Well! I dived into the 200pi today to why the tig gas was not working properly. Removed the solenoid, took it apart and found that the spring looks a little short, I stretched it some wait, replaced the o-ring because that was not sealing properly, also I put a very small amount of pipe dope around the screw base, reinstalled it, and everything is working great. All gauges are holding pressure now, post flow, and the down slop seems to be working just fine. While the cover was off, I did go through and tightened misc screws used it tonight and it is working fine. Looking at the seat valve plunger I can see that it needed a little more seat pressure on the brass seat. Thanks to all for your response, also the 200pi the solenoid is 220 volt.
    Sparkplug

  4. #14
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    tigqk is offline Senior Member
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    I took my solenoid apart and I had come to the same assumption that you made that the two machined surfaces of the solenoid needed gasket materials between the two to seal them properly so I put some liquid pvc rather than any other material that was rtv on the two seats then ended up cleaning and polishing the steel clean because I looked closer at the spring mechanism and found that the gas under pressure came from the inside of the plunger and therefore when on used pressure to seal the unit, and thought it may do more harm than good, I did however remove the cardboard gasket from the solenoid top as per Simon recommendations, to make tighter joint and tested with soapy water and all was well.You should at this time seal the input-output threads with epoxy and coat the fibre washers, coating the fibre washers allows the elbows to line up properly, I tossed mine but had enough line to make it work, just barely, and replace the clamps with 5/16 double-side permanent style, I think if you look at the "quick disconnect posts" they may be their.But this last modification goes a long way towards peace of mind.
    Glad we got a good look at the voltage of the solenoid, when I initially had problems I was going to replace mine with aftermarket solenoid and all I could find in the catolog was 115v and a 12 volt in the same profile and threads, and assumed their was no such animal as a 220 when it was mentioned here, and has proved to be a mistaken assumption.But when I found the cost of a replacement, decided to work with what I had.The replacement was about $60.00 around here.
    Did you not feel when you took the o-ring out for replacement that it seemed very thin?Did you match it up or use a thicker one?
    Anyhow glad you got into it, feel alot more confident now about working on it and making mods?
    1 Longevity LS 200PI & Stand
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  5. #15
    KHK's Avatar
    KHK
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    Glad to hear that your machine is working!!!
    keith
    The older the Boys, the more expensive the TOYS
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    3HP Speedair air compressor, Wilton drill press, Craftsman 10x36 lathe, 10 ton hydrolic press, Portaband band saw, OA torch, Small home brew CNC machine, powered by my 200PI
    2 Longevity autodarking helmets
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    WeldAll 200PI

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