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Thread: Best Tig Welds On Chromeoly for Me Yet!

  1. #1
    UTRIED is offline Junior Member
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    Best Tig Welds On Chromeoly for Me Yet!

    Been practicing on some scrap chromeoly before i get my cage from ups on monday, this is where i ended up with my heat set around 60 amps and just using the torch button instead of the foot pedal and it seems to penetrate pretty good!



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    Looking pretty good.
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    Looks nice to me to,but to me it looks like you didn't add enough filler.It just looks like it is fused together in some spots,and needs to be pretty solid for a roll bar,But what do I know,i'm just a hobby welder.looks like it is going to be a fun project.I need to get out there and practice more myself.
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    It's certainly better than I can currently accomplish. Good job.

    Thurmond
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    Looking GREAT!! Just a few things; the vertical pipe looks under cut, maybe to nuch heat to the vertical & not enough filler rod. I am not a profesional, just trying to help..
    keith
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    I'm posting this for Stan (SICFabrications) He is having trouble posting and wanted to comment on your welds. I will be trying to find out what his posting issue is later today.

    "nope, still cant post..... please tell "utried" that his tig weld on chromoly is wicked undercut. add more filler and watch the torch angle.... allow the puddle to "wash" up onto the top piece and get the undercutting out..."

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    What kind of car is the cage going into? The undercut will be a huge problem, and needs to be reprimanded before you weld on the cage. Adding filler metal and adjusting torch angle as SIC said will be the easiest way to fix the issue. How was the fit before you welded the joint? Any voids or irregular gaps? Also to me it seems your travel speed is a little slow with your heat settings, and try to make sure you have an 1/8" or so of overlap. Consistency is and joint preparation is key.

    Depending on what vehicle this cage is going into, there will be some spots that will seem nearly impossible to weld, but it is. I had to install a dash bar on an 8 point chromoly cage a few years ago in an LS1 car. With the dash out it was still difficult to get to. I ended up laying upside down, head next to the brake pedal (glad it was an auto car) arms twisted like a pretzel, welding the back side of the bar with a mirror taped to the firewall of the car.

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    Here is an explanation by Stan, he still cannot post.

    tell utried this: point the tungsten down more, slow down, and drop the heat by about 7 to 10 amps... add more filler more steadily... when you point the tungsten at the joint and more into the upper part of the joint, it puts too much heat there and causes undercutting..... it is a good start, but that will never pass if you try to get that inspected for a sanctioned race...
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    i dunno what happened, but if i use chrome on my laptop hooked to a MiFi instead of the normal wifi in the house, i can post..... anyway, aim that tungsten down and learnt o walk the cup and heed the above advice, and you should come out with satisfactory welds
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