I have some steel tig rods that are starting to get some rust on them not real bad but they are not shiny like when I bought them. What is the best way to clean them up and are they still ok to use?
I have some steel tig rods that are starting to get some rust on them not real bad but they are not shiny like when I bought them. What is the best way to clean them up and are they still ok to use?
The guys in our local welding school use a scouring pad and/or acetone to clean their tig rods.
There may be a better answer from the more experienced tig guys here though, that's just what I've seen used.
HTP Mig 2400
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i've never had the problem of any of my filler metals getting rusty.... i found an old fridge, took the compressor n all out of it, cut a hole in the back and put a heat lamp in it..... keeps the moisture off the filler, also, if youve never had the opportunity to run a pre-heated 7018 rod, you truly are missing out on life!
Torchmate 5 x 10 custom built CNC table
6 (each) Thermadyne 252i mig/ stick/ tig
Thermal Dynamics a-60 automated cutter
Thermal cutmaster 52 handheld cutter
'07 pro300 miller
'08 275 trailblazer miller
'99 250 trailblazer
12vs extreme suitcase feeder
2 (each) xr-a 50 foot push-pull feeders (for aluminum mig)
800 ton break
400 ton shear
MM350p
xmt 304
(do i REALLY need to keep going?)
nothing fancy, just a few hot glue guns for metal
www.sicfabrications.com
yup preheated 7018 runs nicely
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old 1950s Master Electric engine drive DC Powersource
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HF 100 FC
Victor Journeyman Oxy/Ace set up
Bunch of tools of the trade to much to list
WeldorWeb.com
What is the difference? Does preheated have better penatration or just burn smoother with a good bead? And how long do you have to preheat the rod at what temp? I was just wondering. Thanks.
Last edited by shaun; 12-07-2011 at 09:23 AM.
there is actually a chart that you can find with a simple google search that gives the reclaim and maintain temps for low hydrogen rods (7018, 8018, 11018 etc...)
i also want you to understand the fridge with a heat lamp IS NOT to be confused for a true rod oven and maintaining temps for code work, nor can it be used as a reclaim oven.... just sayin
the difference is not necessarily better penetration, but a better bead with better tie-in and wetting in the toes. when the rods are right, the metal is right, the travel speed and amperage are right, then the 7018 weld will turn a blue-ish gold color and the slag will start peeling off before you even get done with the weld
Torchmate 5 x 10 custom built CNC table
6 (each) Thermadyne 252i mig/ stick/ tig
Thermal Dynamics a-60 automated cutter
Thermal cutmaster 52 handheld cutter
'07 pro300 miller
'08 275 trailblazer miller
'99 250 trailblazer
12vs extreme suitcase feeder
2 (each) xr-a 50 foot push-pull feeders (for aluminum mig)
800 ton break
400 ton shear
MM350p
xmt 304
(do i REALLY need to keep going?)
nothing fancy, just a few hot glue guns for metal
www.sicfabrications.com
And all this time I thought "Hot Rod" referred to a fast car.
Thurmond
Miller Bobcat 3 Phase,
26 series gas cooled TIG torch, setup for quick connect to Bobcat.
Miller Suitcase X-Treme 12VS
17 Series Tig Torch for Solar Powered Welding Project
EVERLAST PowerUltra 205P
Hobart Handler 187 Mig / Flux Core
Standard Oxygen / Acetylene Cutting, Welding setup.
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