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Thread: LT200 pre- and post-flow?

  1. #11
    bhardy501's Avatar
    bhardy501 is offline Senior Member
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    Re: LT200 pre- and post-flow?

    The last post was supposed to say to check out a popular online auction site but it changed it to Longevity-inc. and wouldnt let me change it.
    Longevity 160P
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  2. #12
    smcewan is offline Junior Member
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    Re: LT200 pre- and post-flow?

    bhardy, thanks for the feedback. I'll give this some more thought, and I do review that bidding site a bunch.

  3. #13
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    bhardy501 is offline Senior Member
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    Re: LT200 pre- and post-flow?

    Since you already have the gas, regulator and some rods I would suggest that you find a good AC/DC stick machine (dont waste money on an AC only stick machine) and get you a good dry rig set up they are around $100.00. You can do stick and TIG on steel and stainless. Get you a good little MIG machine and you will also have that covered for your automotive work. If you look around you can pick up a good used AC/DC stick machine for under $250.00. I would get the MIG first, thats the most versatile, then work on the stick machine and accessories. Good luck.
    Longevity 160P
    Miller 130 wire welder
    Lincoln Ranger 10,000
    Harris Torch set
    Grizzly 11x26 metal lathe

  4. #14
    Gaustin is offline Senior Member
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    Re: LT200 pre- and post-flow?

    Tig welding auto body sheetmetal can be difficult. The GTAW process is less forgiving when it comes to contaminants such as paint and other coatings applied to body panels.

    GTAW is very dependent upon close fitting parts and cleanliness. I'm not saying it wont work. Its just that if had a 200 FCAW or GMAW machine or SMAW with 6012 I would probably choose it over GTAW regardless of how high end the welder was.

    I have been welding for many years and thin poorly fit sheetmetal is a pain but GMAW, .035 wire and some shielding gas gives some great flexibility..

    Dont rule out good ole braze welding in some situations.

  5. #15
    Gaustin is offline Senior Member
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    Re: LT200 pre- and post-flow?

    Here are some pics from an 80 Amp Inverter power source similar to the one from Harbor Freight. I had this one, sold it for over 300 and got the HF model for 125 ish.







    As indicated by Bhardy, the air cooled tig rig and a bottle of argon can go along way. A few more pics are at 110 V Tig Welder
    Last edited by Gadget; 12-28-2009 at 06:54 PM.

  6. #16
    Allegro40 is offline Member
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    go with the mig

    25 years in the automotive industry running body shops and everything else, I will definately agree that the mig is the way to go, use argon gas and wind is and issue as well. if you want to fix the frame you could use a stick welder or a mig that will handle 1/4" thick steel

  7. #17
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    That's not a cheapo welder that's the thermalarc dragster 90. Great little
    machine for the begginer. Also mig is the way to go for your application. You are going to have alot of hrs in practice so prepare for that. Mig might just be the way to go and I would go for the mig now just hold onto your tig stuff for another day.

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