Automatic Translations (Powered by Powered by Google):
Afrikaans Arabic Belarusian Bulgarian Catalan Czechoslovakia Cyprus Germany  Spanish  Ethiopia Persian Finnish French Irish Galician Hindi Croatian Hungarian Icelandic Italian Hebrew Japanese Korean Italian Latvian, Lettish Macedonian Malay Maltese Dutch Norwegian Polish Portuguese Romanian Russian Slovak Slovenian Albanian Serbian Swedish Swahili Thai Tagalog Turkish Ukrainian Vietnamese English
FreeWeldingForum.com Welding Forum Community presented by LONGEVITY  
+ Reply to Thread Share
Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Latch Ideas???

  1. #1
    Bluesman's Avatar
    Bluesman is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    South MS
    Posts
    712
    Images
    51
    Thanks
    200
    Thanked 18 Times in 18 Posts

    Latch Ideas???

    I searched this site but can't find any "latch" type projects. What I need is to know what the best and most simple design is to use on my smoker door. Got the door on and banded, but when I mounted the hinges I split the kerf difference on top and bottom because that is what I thought would make sense. Apparently NOT and I should have put all the gap at the bottom and made the top flush because when I split the difference it changed the arc radius of the door and the top and sides seal off BUT when it gets to the last inch or so on the bottom of the sides and front, it don't close completely. There probably wouldn't be any smoke/heat loss as the hole is good and tight, but it just looks wierd to me and I want to be able to put a latch on each side to be able to "pull it in" when I close the door and it look the same all the way around. I was thinking about doing one of those types with the handle on the outside and a flapper on the inside that would swivel and pull it in and tight when rotated 90 degrees.

    Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated as I want something that will work but I also want it to look good and not look like a bear's ass sewed up with barb wire.

    thanks.

    Scott
    Just Sensible Concepts
    *Longevity Weldall 160PI (technically it's not mine but it is on MY inventory for my shop at work)
    Lincoln Weldanpower 200
    Lincoln Pro Mig 180
    Lincoln AC225

  2. #2
    KHK's Avatar
    KHK
    KHK is offline Moderator
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Chicago suburbs
    Posts
    2,565
    Images
    88
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 52 Times in 50 Posts
    Scott, could you provide a picture?
    keith
    The older the Boys, the more expensive the TOYS
    Previously Owned equipment;
    lot's
    Current equipment;
    3HP Speedair air compressor, Wilton drill press, Craftsman 10x36 lathe, 10 ton hydrolic press, Portaband band saw, OA torch, Small home brew CNC machine, powered by my 200PI
    2 Longevity autodarking helmets
    160d MIG
    WeldAll 200PI

  3. #3
    Bluesman's Avatar
    Bluesman is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    South MS
    Posts
    712
    Images
    51
    Thanks
    200
    Thanked 18 Times in 18 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by KHK View Post
    Scott, could you provide a picture?
    Sure can, but it may be a little cause the 1st period class doesn't have shop. 2nd period we will be out there and I can take one but will have to wait until I get back in the classroom to post it unless there is a way to pump it straight from a a blackberry?
    Just Sensible Concepts
    *Longevity Weldall 160PI (technically it's not mine but it is on MY inventory for my shop at work)
    Lincoln Weldanpower 200
    Lincoln Pro Mig 180
    Lincoln AC225

  4. #4
    Bluesman's Avatar
    Bluesman is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    South MS
    Posts
    712
    Images
    51
    Thanks
    200
    Thanked 18 Times in 18 Posts
    Haven't had a chance to get a pic yet but I did decide to bite the bullet and remove the hinges off the back and move the door backwards a bit. Now, even when the hinges are disconnected it seems the door itself is a different size in arc radius than the tank. I am not sure if this could have been due to heat distortion or not because it is evenly "large" all the way around and isn't like normal heat distortion I've ever seen. Is it possible that the metal just relaxed when I cut it out from being part of a cylinder or what? I'm trying to figure out a way to slightly torque it back into position by applying even pressure. I'm thinking if I put a chunk of pipe in it for integrity purposes and then run straps across the back of it and pull tight and then apply some heat that it may help pull it in. If not, I don't know what to do, but I do know I'm too deep into this project to just scrap it that is for damn sure.
    Just Sensible Concepts
    *Longevity Weldall 160PI (technically it's not mine but it is on MY inventory for my shop at work)
    Lincoln Weldanpower 200
    Lincoln Pro Mig 180
    Lincoln AC225

  5. #5
    SICFabrications's Avatar
    SICFabrications is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    central arkansas
    Posts
    1,046
    Images
    43
    Thanks
    33
    Thanked 99 Times in 85 Posts

    Awards Showcase

    you try what we talked about, yet?
    Torchmate 5 x 10 custom built CNC table
    6 (each) Thermadyne 252i mig/ stick/ tig
    Thermal Dynamics a-60 automated cutter
    Thermal cutmaster 52 handheld cutter
    '07 pro300 miller
    '08 275 trailblazer miller
    '99 250 trailblazer
    12vs extreme suitcase feeder
    2 (each) xr-a 50 foot push-pull feeders (for aluminum mig)
    800 ton break
    400 ton shear
    MM350p
    xmt 304
    (do i REALLY need to keep going?)

    nothing fancy, just a few hot glue guns for metal

    www.sicfabrications.com

+ Reply to Thread Share

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 
 
www.longevity-inc.com | About us | Products | Rentals | Resources | Dealers | Order Status | Contact us | Help & Faqs | Site Map